Bolsters on stub tang?

[David Peterson]

Hey all,
I have a knife blade that I've been working on, and I now want to convert it to a stub tang design. I've already made the bolsters to go on the full tang version, but thought about using them on the stub tang too. I'm looking for opinions on if it's possible, any snags I might run into etc.. Here's a quick and dirty picture of what I'm thinking. The handle outline is the blade as it is now, and the stub is what I want it to be. I thought about pinning the bolsters on first, then grinding away most of the handle, and finishing up to the bolsters with a file. Then I would drill the wood and fit it up to the bolsters, with a spacer, and then glue it all together. I've never seen a knife done this way, so I thought I'd get everyones opinions first. Any thoughts?



-Dave

[Jamey Saunders]

I can't recall ever seeing a knife made this way either, but that's not saying it can't be done. I'd fix the bolsters then file the back of the bolsters carefully to make the handle fit.

Everything was once done first by somebody.

[floridafred]

I have made several of these and plan to continue. Putting them together is pretty straight forward. I finish the bolster and the wood handle at the same time.

[floridafred]

I forgot to mention that I defferentially heat treat so that I can file the shoulders square with the back of the bolsters. That is the most important thing for a good fitup.

[David Peterson]

Fred,
That's one good looking knife. Simplicity at its best. Do you have to pin these types of knives, or is that a design feature? If you have to pin them, how do you go about getting the holes lines up correctly? Thanks.

-Dave

[floridafred]

Thanks Dave: Yes the bolsters have two pins and the wood handle two pins which are visible. The way I do it is to first polish the front of the bolsters. Then I glue one bolster to the knife just where I want it. I use instant glue. I then drill through the knife holes to get the holes right in the bolster. I take a heat gun and heat up the bolster until the glue lets go. Be careful not to heat the blade too much. I wrap a wet cloth around it if it begins to heat.

When I have the bolster free I glue the two bolsters together the same way and drill through one bolster to line up the holes in the other. Again the heat gun separates them. Be sure to clean of any remaining glue each time,

Now the holes in the knife and the bolsters are in perfect alignment to accept the pins. This is the short version so if you have any questions let me know.

[David Peterson]

Fred,
Hey that's a great trick to get the bolsters on. I'm definitely going to use that one.

How did you get the pins in the handle to line up with holes in the stub tang? Did you drill the hole in the metal first, before heat treat, or did you anneal the stub and drill through both the wood and metal all at once? Thanks.

-Dave

[floridafred]

I fill a coffee can with water. Place a rod thru one hole drilled for the tang and suspend the blade in water with the tang held above the water by the rod which rests on the top of the can. I then draw the tang back with a propane or Mapp torch. I then drill the handle and tang at the same time for a perfect fit.

[Ansoknives]

I have done it a few times and it works great with no big difficulties...its just different so if you are used to work differently just take it slow...this ?ne was made like that......I fitted the bolsters as close to the tang as possible and then very carefully with a small wheel on my grinder fitting the 3 parts together..I did this with the bolsters only attached with try pins.....took the thing apart and straigtened the back of the bolster on my diskgrinder to get the perfect fit. I don?t much care for soldered guards so this is the way I do it....

[Jamey Saunders]

Wow, Jens! I love that knife. I think that's my favorite out of all the pictures you have ever posted here. Very nice.