Sword material

[Vishnu]

I think I have been learning alot from everyone out there who is kind enough to share their wisdom. But on thing that I havent been able to figure out is which CPM carbon steel would make a good sword. I would use 1085 if I was doing it normally but I think I'm sold on the "purity and uniformity" of CPM steels....But then all the alloying elements might not hold up to well to all the banging a sword word take now, would it? There is a reason why simple steels are use for swords right?

Thanks
Vishnu

[Jerry Hossom]

CPM-3V makes an excellent sword; it's very tough. S30V would likely make a good sword as well, even if it is stainless; it's about the same toughness as A2 which is pretty tough. I wouldn't recommend any of the others, due to brittleness. CPM-1V is new and should make an excellent sword, but I haven't tried it. It is tougher than 3V, and at Rc57-58 should make a good blade. I'd want to test it first.

[Gabe Newell]

First time I've heard about CPM-1V. Does Crucible have information on their website?

[RPatton]

I'd agree with Jerry on the 3V and 30V (if you had to have stainless)...don't know didly about the other CPMs.
The reason the simple steels have been used so often for swords is that they've been around for a looong time, they are generally tough as a pine knott and you can forge them how you want. They are also relatively easy to heattreat.

The alloy elements aren't going to care about getting banged around... provided the overall hardness isn't too high...which brings up the point that you want to temper a sword back more than a hunting knife or a Bowie, at least in traditional steel.

Jerry's swords in 3V....Were they the same hardness as other blades or were they drawn back more?


( L-6, 5160 or 1080 is hard to beat for a sword)



Rob

[Jerry Hossom]

My 3V swords have generally been drawn to Rc59, rather then the Rc61 I use with my knives, but I'm now convinced that isn't needed. Given the toughness, I'd rather keep it hard so it can cut better.