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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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basket weave relief
I've done a few sheaths stamping a basketweave pattern. I am not getting as good a relief in the pattern as I've seen others. What am I doing wrong? |
#2
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Tracy, are you dampening the leather (not soaking it) before tooling? |
#3
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Tracey--Several things could be wrong here! First--are you using vegetable tanned cowhide? It is almost impossible to basket stamp any chrome-tannedleather as it will NOT hold the impression. Are you using leather referred to as tooling or carving cowhide? This would be tanned to the correct degree of firmness to take sharp impressions, would mold easily, and be simple to case. When casing the leather it is important that you wet it enough to change the color to an EVEN darker shade.and the leather glistens with water on the surface. DO NOT SOAK! Set the leather aside on a flat surface and you will notice that the surface water is being absorbed by the leather and the shine is leaving the surface which is now dull. If you do not intend to stamp for a few hours, wrap in plastic and put aside (on a flat surface). If you desire a longer period of waiting, put the wrapped leather in the refrigerator. The frost free refrigerators will not keep the leather cased as long as the older models. Do not attempt to stamp the leather until it has almost reached its natural color. At this time it should feel cold if held against your cheek. Naturally, if you have a beard, this would not apply! If it feels warm and dry, do not attempt to stamp. Dampen from the backside moderately and go from there. Do not use a mallet so light that you have to hammer in the impressions with repeated blows. Use a mallet heavy enough to get the depth in one stroke. This eliminates chatter and double impressions. Have fun! Sandy |
#4
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The leather is vegetable tanned. I've no idea if it carving or tooling. I do know it's cow. I am soaking the leather so I guess that sounds like the problem. I suspected it might have to do with wetting it. Casing I now know to call it. I'll practice (proper) casing on some scrap. Next I need to learn how to carve like RWClark does. Thanks for the help guys. |
#5
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sheath ingraving
I always use a spray bottle and spray a small area at a time. |
#6
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Re: sheath ingraving
An update to an old thread. Finally got around to using the advice I received here. It worked quite nicely, thank you. One other thing I learned while practicing was that work surface matters also. I was using a plywood board and switched to a granite work surface. A significant improvement. This was probably an obvious given for you, but for me it wasn't. Live and learn. Now to learn carving... |
#7
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Re: sheath ingraving
the new leather guy chimes in late... Best impressions with 'stamps"... Caseing solution of.. H20.. some slivers of bar saddle soap. not much just a little bit. Shake and stir.. keep a quart handy. Caseing the veg tanned .. dip it till no air bubbles are coming out. Depending on size.. wrap in plastic wrap or put in zip lock bag. Into the refrigerator overnight. Next day... remove from the refer and wrap. Let it come to best tooling feel. It should have returned to nearly its original color and feel cool when you hold it to your cheek. Not all cows are the same. nor parts of the cow. The closer to the spine the better the leather is for 'stamping' or impressions. Get close to the belly and the fibers are pretty soft and it like stamping mush. Charles |
#8
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Echoes from previous posts
Charles, my friend----echoing previous postings will keep that thread current. I would contact you if your profile gave any indication of how to do so which is your privelege, of course! My apologies to all forumites for my display of irritation. Repetition for recognition will weaken an attempt of camaraderie. Sandy |
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Bowman, Corey D., Sandy1105 |
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