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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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Professional Oil Dye problems
Does the "Professional Oil dye" ever dry completely so that it doesn't keep rubbing off?
I used the dye on normal tooliing leather, then finished with a coat of Neatsfoot oil, as I wanted an oil-type finish as opposed to a gloss. You can rub the sheath witha cloth forever and stain just keeps rubbing off. As a matter of fact, an ivory handled knife I kept in one for a while got stained where the handle was in contact with the leather, and had to be sanded and rebuffed to remove the dye stain. Any solutions welcomed. Thanks. |
#2
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I don't use neetsfoot as a finish myself, but I'd bet that the neetsfoot is mixing with the dye and keeping it from drying totally. For a non-gloss finish I melt beeswax with neetsfoot, let it cool to a peanut butter consistency, and rub it into the dyed leather. Knock on wood, I've never had a sheath finished like this bleed onto a handle, including ivory micarta and fossil ivory. I've never tried it on regular ivory.
To be safe, maybe using the alcohol based dyes for knives with light colored handles would be a better idea? Mike __________________ Trying to become the kind of man my dog thinks I am http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft...E4E363B}&tio=0 |
#3
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First Question: Did you buff it thoroughly with a clean cloth before oiling? This is most likely the cause rather than lack of drying. ALL Fiebings leather dye whether Pro Oil or Spirit (the pro oil is basically the same as the spirit with oil added - read the ingredients both have toluene, etc in them) are powdered dye in a suspension. When the dye dries it leaves a film of this powder on the surface and if that powder is not completely buffed off then when you add your finish, especially oil, the powder mixes with the oil and will rub off forever.
When dying leather it is bests to first first deglaze with denatured alcohol or acetone and then dampen it with water, this will open the pores and allow better penetration. Then thoroughly saturate with dye, not just a thin coat. Let dry and then buff clean, you can even wipe it clean with a rag soaked with rubbing alcohol and squeezed dry, then buff again. Then add the finish of your choice. For a low gloss non-oil finish try Bag Kote. Now to fix your problem (no guarantee but I've done it many times with a pretty good success rate): Take and "strip" the finish with either acetone or denatured alchol. DO NOT soak it in either one just use a rag soaked in the "stripper" of your choice and wipe until all bleeding ends. You will then most likely have to redye - follow the directions above. When applying an oil finish over dye use several light coats rather than one big heavy one. Hope this helps and good luck __________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. |
#4
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Thanks for all the advice-I'll be more careful to thoroughly buff dyed leather in the future before oiling. When I used spirit only dyes in the past, using the same procedures, I don't recall this problem?
One thing I did once was to dye AFTER oiling. It took the dye evenly, but bled a lot also. Is there a chance that by using acrylic resolene now that I could "seal the finish" and solve the problem, or am I stuck with refinishing as the only solution? Thank you Chuck for sharing your wealth of knowledge. |
#5
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Quote:
Even with the spirit dyes i t can happen - much depends on the color - black is of course notoriuos for bleeding. The Acrylic MIGHT seal it but frankly I wouldn't take the chance. The refinish shouldn't take that much time and you probably won't have to re-dye so...... __________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. |
#6
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Bear in mind that an oil finish over dye is not a sealer but merely dilutes the dye and bleeding will occur. Finishing with oil requires the technique stated by Chuck and is well worth the time. If you do not want to finish with multiple light coats of oil you will find Bagkote (sp) a very acceptable substitute. I usually do not use an oil finish unless it is requested as I am a firm believer in the acrylic sealers even though they are more of a glossy (moderate) finish. ----Sandy---
__________________ Martin (Sandy) Morrissey Master Leather Craftsman 1105 Stephens Road Blairsville, GA 30512 706-379-1621 |
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