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Tool Time Let's talk shop. Equipment, Tips & Tricks, Safety issues - Post it here.

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  #16  
Old 12-22-2003, 11:05 AM
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Get your torch and a fan and burn that crap off the pipes.
The green fuzz is the dangerous part.(as it heats up)
Once is is burned up, you can brush it off like dust and have regular steel pipe from there on.It just removes the zinc coating.
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  #17  
Old 12-22-2003, 11:17 AM
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Im with Geno, I have experianced Zink poisoning, it's no fun!
If you ever get a copper taste in your mouth while doing this, STOP!, you dont have enough ventilation!

God Bless

Mike


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  #18  
Old 12-22-2003, 11:55 AM
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I should take those tubes and put them in the wood burning stove for a while with the bottom door open.
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  #19  
Old 12-23-2003, 11:31 PM
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Made some progress on the forge body tonight. Thought I would post a pic. Still need to cut the holes in the doors once I get the insulation in it, complete the latches for the doors, finish the holes on top for the burners, and mount the burner tubes.

I used a plasma cutter to cut the burner holes in. I can not believe how easy it cut that 3/8" steel.


Last edited by YAMAMA; 12-23-2003 at 11:36 PM.
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  #20  
Old 12-25-2003, 08:51 AM
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Yamama, I think you're doing a good job. I have a little KC forge, but after seeing yours, I think I'll follow your lead. I had talked with B. Warner last year about it, and got some info on the jet size. The only thing I'll do different is to make the legs LONG, I can't bend over anymore, so I'll want it at about chest level. What are you going to do on the inside, kaowool or refractry?
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  #21  
Old 12-25-2003, 08:53 AM
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BTW, forgot to ask: you will be cutting windows in each end right? The flame has to go somewhere after it's done it's job.
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  #22  
Old 12-25-2003, 10:00 AM
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Yea, I need to cut the "windows" in still. I wanted to wait until I knew how high to make them and that wont be until I have the refractories in.

I plan on using a combination of Inswool, satanite, and firebrick.

I made the legs like that so if I ever want to extend them it will be real easy with some longer box tubing. I also figured I could set it on a few cinder blocks if I wanted more elevation.
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  #23  
Old 12-25-2003, 10:42 AM
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the legs on mine ar railroad spikes because I set it on a metal table attached to my press. Just make sure that whatever you do, it is solod and cannot tip over. the last thing you need is a 2000 degree hot box tipping over and starting a fire.


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  #24  
Old 12-29-2003, 07:58 AM
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Wanted to share an experiance I had relining my forge. I relined it this last summer before I started my road job, but just got to use it the first time last night. Boy what a forge! had to cut the gas almost off to keep it at a forging temp, anything else, and I was in the white orange range, definatly a welding forge!

What I did was use 1' of koawool, then laid a hard fire brick in the bottom to lay my work on, since it stuck up higher than the koa wool, I decided to use some "fire place putty" its Ace hardware brand, waterbase, and cream colored. to blend the brick into the interior so the flame swirl didnt become too interupted. I had quite a bit left over, and liked the way it covered the koawool, so I watered it down just a bit and smeared it all over the interior, figuring that it would help make the joints where the flame tube comes in a little more airtight.

As I said, it has sat and dried for months, so I dont have any idea of a drying time. And while it did take an extra 5 to 10 mins to come to a full heat, once there MAN O MAN! like I said, had the air at less than half open, and the gas almost completly shut off! This gave me a very BRIGHT orange color, with the gas opened a little more, and the air opened up, It was white orange, and hard to look at!

You can still tear the lining if you arn't careful, but it is much tuffer than just satinite and ITC100.

I apologize for rambling here, and no specifics on the fireplace putty, just ask at your local ace hardware, and get the cream colored water base stuff, mine came in a 2lb pail.

God bless

Mike


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  #25  
Old 12-29-2003, 08:00 AM
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Question: Would this be considered a Semi Castable Refractory?

Mike


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  #26  
Old 12-29-2003, 11:43 AM
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I wonder what the max temp for the fireplace putty is... I might have to cruz by ACE at lunch today and read the specs.
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  #27  
Old 12-29-2003, 06:37 PM
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I use refractory plaster for the same thing.
Mix with water and apply, let dry, and it forms a cast.
This is the same stuff I use to line my forge so I keep it on hand for repairs.
I'v even made forms to hold tubing for the mosaic billets, inside the forge.Good and workable.
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  #28  
Old 12-29-2003, 09:02 PM
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Went by ACE hardware today and could not find any fireplace puddy. I aked the guy and he handed my some high temp silicone... Looked all over and could not find anything even similar.
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  #29  
Old 12-29-2003, 10:00 PM
Terry_Dodson Terry_Dodson is offline
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Mike

Mike any chance of a picture of the label or a part number, i couldnt find anything on thier website either.
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  #30  
Old 12-30-2003, 11:19 AM
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would this make a good forge body or is it too small?
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