Testing for the ultimate adhesive

[orvet]

I am back to this thread (again) for reference. Someone mentioned Sumo Glue earlier & I thought I would share my experience.

I have been using it for several months as I like the fact that it doesn't foam up as much as Gorilla glue does.

While my test wasn't scientific here is what happened.

I was making a boning knife for my wife. She picked the blank form Jantz's catalog & said, "I want that one." I showed her some choices of handle wood and to my surprise she picked some colored layered Dyamondwood. To make a long story somewhat shorter.........I botched the handles........after I had them glued on & the glue had had several days to cure. I tried to remove them by driving a wood chisel between the blade & the Dyamondwood. The Dyamondwood promptly split at about 2-3 layers up from the tang leaving a layer of wood about 1/4" thick firmly glued to the tang. Not thick enough to get under with the chisel and try to pry off. I ended up sanding the rest of the wood & Sumo glue off the tang with a belt sander.

BTW, the only prep on the tang was roughing it up with my belt sander and 50 grit. No cleaner of any sort.

I guess the moral is, don't screw up with Sumo Glue. Do it right the first time and it will hold.

Dale

[EdStreet]

try adding 350F heat for not long at all, most glue will come right off in no time.

Ed

[Andrew Garrett]

I saw another 'adhesive' discussion kicking off, so I thought I'd shock the monster.

IT'S ALIVE!

[DaveL]

Have to catch up on this thread but I now use Loctite 330 Depend, used by many maker friends of mine. Never saw it tested before but Loctite is always a champ as far as I am concerned. Watching....

[DaveL]

I am not sure of how this one is going but saw it, commented once and still know there is a real need to talk adhesive. Keep it going, guys!

[Grumpy Pete]

This has been a most useful thread. Thank you so much for your research and advice.

[orvet]

Recently I have been doing more work with stag & bone. I have been having some problems with polyurethane glue (Sumo Glue) & even with epoxy holding.

For prep I have used 40 or 50 grit sandpaper and cleaned surfaces with 99% pure isopropyl alcohol (and let alcohol dry before applying glue).

I have had the best result so far with Pliobond billed as industrial contact cement.
Has anyone tried Speedbonder for bone or stag? I did not see anything tested specifically on stag or bone, (unless I missed it in the spreadsheet).
How about Acraglas, has anyone used it on stag or bone?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dale

[cliff fendley]

Acra-glas works great on stag.

After this thread I did some experimenting of my own and I'm using Loctite E-120 on slab type handles and I'm using good ole Acra-glas on hidden tang knives.

The Locktite E-120 was the best one I tested for all around glueing things together and holding up in the dishwasher and the freezer.

I tried the speedbonder loctite adhesives and they were a terrible failure. I was very disappointed in their strength.

[Troop]

Here's the link to the E-120HP Technical Data Sheet:
https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/8FD3ABAA09A649FE882571870000DB2F/$File/HysAE-120hp-EN.pdf
Enjoy.
- Mitch

[Troop]

AND, Here is the link to the Loctite 324 Technical Data Sheet:

https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/8D3D677339F34ACD882571870000D65C/$File/324-EN.pdf

[Steven Penner]

with the postiive results in the
Loctite E120-HP

i was wondering if anyone has considered side by side testing of this one with

Loctite
E30-CL
Ultra clear

It seems to me that the ultra clear would be an advantage and as i have used it, works very well.

[EdStreet]

I did call loctite on the difference in 120 and 60/50/40/30/20. The difference is the number is the cure time and the letters after that is the sub type, i.e.
HP high performance
CL clear
FL flexible
IC induction cure
NS non-sag
NC Non-Corrosive
GW galvanized steel to wood
HT high temp
UT contains kevlar

Mostly the materials you are using makes the difference in which flavor you go with, i.e. using glass get the CL as it dries clear, GW if your using galvanized steel to wood.

[ranger1]

Originally Posted by cliff fendley

Acra-glas works great on stag.

After this thread I did some experimenting of my own and I'm using Loctite E-120 on slab type handles and I'm using good ole Acra-glas on hidden tang knives.

The Locktite E-120 was the best one I tested for all around glueing things together and holding up in the dishwasher and the freezer.

I tried the speedbonder loctite adhesives and they were a terrible failure. I was very disappointed in their strength.

I use the same methods. If it works stay with it. You can't beat acra-glas on a hidden tang.

[tmickley]

gotta love the glue wars.. it will never end which is great!

I haven't gone out of my way to look for or test any new adhesives lately. I have heard there is a white colored version of Gorilla Glue being sold now but I haven't found it on a store shelf yet. The yellow cured color was kind of an issue before for some. Gorilla and Sumo glues are exceptional adhesives and worth having a bottle around just for general use.

I still fall back to 2 part epoxy most often for fixing handles to full tang blades. I also still use JBweld for sealing the seam in bolsters although since I've started using my pin press, there isn't much of a seam left to seal.

[DaveL]

Yeah, I was there, early on in this thread and used to use nothing but AcraWeld. Now my favorite is Loctite 300 Depend but I have, as expected, some bad reviews here on that one too. Anyone have the ultimate? Gorilla glue, JB Weld, Loctite 120, etc. etc..........Help!!