MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions

Knife Making Discussions A place to discuss issues related to all aspects of the custom knifemaking community.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #241  
Old 09-11-2005, 07:34 AM
aiiifish's Avatar
aiiifish aiiifish is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: south mississippi
Posts: 432
Just wanted to say thanks for the time and effort you guys put into this. I appriciate you helping me to make a better and stronger product!


__________________
Steve Shiffer

Fear causes hesitation, hesitation will cause your greatest fear to come true.

Reply With Quote
  #242  
Old 09-12-2005, 03:33 PM
SteveS's Avatar
SteveS SteveS is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 748
You're welcome Steve!

BTW gang, remember temperature!

My house is staying cooler than it was. You have to get epoxy to a certain temp to get it cure properly. Once again I had to put the knife in the oven at a warm setting.

For example, I 'glued' up a knife with E120-HP on Thursday and left it in the house. Went away for the weekend and the exposed epoxy was just a tad tacky and not completely hard. A couple hours in the oven at the lowest setting and all is well. It's a chemical process and as such is influenced greatly by temp.

In general, let it start curing at room temp for several hours. Then some time at higher temps to cure. This is especially true with E120-HP. It strengthens with elevated temps (see their data sheet).

BTW I like to keep the mixing container with the knife. I use that to double check how the epoxy is doing and chuck it out when it's done.

Steve


__________________
SandoKnives
Reply With Quote
  #243  
Old 03-30-2006, 01:04 PM
Jens Butler's Avatar
Jens Butler Jens Butler is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Faifield, Iowa USA
Posts: 93
Quick note about the Gorilla Glue (which is what I'm using) It cleans up nicely with acetone.
If its foaming out into the ricasso area just wipe it down with a cotton swab( q-tip ) wetted with acetone. I like the stuff, easier for me to use than trying to mix the epoxy "just right".


Jens


__________________
If a man is alone in the woods is he still wrong ?
Reply With Quote
  #244  
Old 04-04-2006, 01:43 AM
alexkuzn's Avatar
alexkuzn alexkuzn is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Francisco, California
Posts: 592
Steve,

what do you use to clean E120-HP off the blade?

Alex
Reply With Quote
  #245  
Old 04-04-2006, 04:29 PM
DaveL DaveL is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 449
I love this adhesive testing. I was the one who started the Acra Weld thing, only to (sob) have it go down too. Maybe now that is sold with an applicator....Oh well, I have friends that use Loctite 330 exclsively for knife handles, I was just at the Tulsa show and I think all of the Guild members use "Depend" as they call 330. Loctite is good stuff, no doubt.
Reply With Quote
  #246  
Old 04-04-2006, 06:16 PM
tmickley's Avatar
tmickley tmickley is offline
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North Mankato, MN
Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexkuzn
Steve,

what do you use to clean E120-HP off the blade?

Alex
if it is dried, sandpaper.
if it is not yet cured, regular rubbing alcohol or acetone
all epoxy is toxic, keep it off your skin...
Reply With Quote
  #247  
Old 06-23-2006, 07:18 PM
alexkuzn's Avatar
alexkuzn alexkuzn is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Francisco, California
Posts: 592
Guys, if you get a chance can you also test new Locktite "Sumo glue"?
It suppose to be a better "Gorilla glue" - stronger and less foam.

Last edited by alexkuzn; 06-24-2006 at 12:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #248  
Old 06-24-2006, 12:30 AM
alexkuzn's Avatar
alexkuzn alexkuzn is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Francisco, California
Posts: 592
You must read this about Loctite Depend 330
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...pdf/ACH172.pdf
Reply With Quote
  #249  
Old 06-24-2006, 10:16 AM
tmickley's Avatar
tmickley tmickley is offline
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North Mankato, MN
Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexkuzn
Guys, if you get a chance can you also test new Locktite "Sumo glue"?
It suppose to be a better "Gorilla glue" - stronger and less foam.
glue testing is done as far as Steve and I are concerned. I'd invite anyone else to do some more tests and tack them onto this thread.
Reply With Quote
  #250  
Old 09-06-2006, 01:04 PM
JediOkie's Avatar
JediOkie JediOkie is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 684
What do you think about using a solvent to clean blade and handle material? I know of one used to clean gym floors before applying wax. Do you think that would be okay to use to clean with before applying epoxy?

Thanks,
Jayson

Last edited by JediOkie; 09-11-2006 at 02:53 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #251  
Old 09-06-2006, 01:24 PM
AcridSaint AcridSaint is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,144
Hey Jedi, I didn't catch your real name. Anyways, solvents are mentioned some here, the problem is that you have to find one that leaves absolutely no residue. Even ones that say they don't seem to leave something behind. Alcohol is about the best thing I guess. There's some talk of surface prep throughout the thread.


__________________
Cap Hayes

See my knives @ knives.caphayes.com

This quote pains me:
-- "Strategically placed blood grooves control blood spray in covert deanimation activities." --
Reply With Quote
  #252  
Old 09-06-2006, 05:22 PM
tmickley's Avatar
tmickley tmickley is offline
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North Mankato, MN
Posts: 0
I personally use alchohol. It's cheap and usually works quite well.
Reply With Quote
  #253  
Old 09-06-2006, 05:37 PM
EdStreet EdStreet is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 1,050
when I was on the phone with loctite about 324 speedbonder they said use alcohol. Also mentioned simple green leaves a residue.

Ed


__________________
Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid
Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade.
"Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall
But steel - cold steel is master of them all.
Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936)
Reply With Quote
  #254  
Old 09-06-2006, 06:52 PM
tmickley's Avatar
tmickley tmickley is offline
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North Mankato, MN
Posts: 0
the thread that won't die...
Anyway, I have been trying Loctite 330 recently on some knives that will never see rough use. This stuff is very quick to use and certainly strong enough for at least a casual use knife. I say casual use only because I haven't done any dishwasher tests but I think it will pass with ease. The temp range and tensile strength are on the high end of anything we tested earlier.

Anyway, it sets up in just a couple of minutes and you can work with the knife scale for drilling, grinding, sanding, whatever in just a couple of minutes. This speeds up productivity on the order of several times - which is huge. The downside to this stuff is the same thing -- it sets up very quickly so you have to move really fast to get excess squeeze out cleaned up where you don't want it. This sounds minor but it's a big deal. You don't want a nice clean knife junked up by epoxy residue where it shouldn't be. The full cure takes up to 24 hours. This is anerobic curing so any adhesive that is exposed to open air doesn't cure and is a sticky mess. I haven't researched toxicity but I don't like any adhesive on bare skin so I consider this a significant drawback also. You will have to clean the noncured stuff up using acetone as alcohol won't cut it. I got this stuff from www.mcmaster.com.

It seems the more I learn about Loctite and their products, the more impressed I am with the depth of their product line and how good a product they put out.
Reply With Quote
  #255  
Old 09-11-2006, 03:05 PM
JediOkie's Avatar
JediOkie JediOkie is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 684
That spreadsheet really puts it all into prospective. Thank you both so much for all of your hard work. Next Question, where did you find the E-120? I've looked online with no success (darn you google).

Jayson

Last edited by JediOkie; 09-11-2006 at 03:31 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
a, apply, awesome, blade, epoxy, fixed blade, forge, glue, handle, hot, knife, knife making, knives, made, making, material, materials, mount, pins, post, project, tang, weld


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:27 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved