KMG Grinder Advice Please

[rockhound]

I am finally about to purchase my first 2X72. I've been making knives by draw-filing with bastard mill files for long enough. I'd like to stay under $2K for this purchase and definitely want a KMG.
So many options and not sure as to which package I should get. I'm a hobby maker, not professional. I can only run 110V. I am thinking that 3 speed 1.5 hp and 8" contact wheel are sufficient? Is there an advantage to the 10" wheel?
Any advice appreciated!

[rockhound]

Sorry, I should have searched the archives 'before' I posted this. All signs point to 8" as being the most logical contact wheel to start with. I may purchase a 10" later if I feel the need.
I just ordered the 3-Speed KMG-8 with platen attachment (1.5hp 110V) and Switch Kit. Total was under $1.8K so I am still under budget! Looking forward to learning and progressing with this tool.

[Connor]

I use an 8" contact wheel for fast Stock removal when hollow grinding and then move to the 10" when I'm close enough. Congratulations on your new purchase ! It should serve you very well.

[Larry Peterson]

Friend,

I use a KMG with a 3 hp to do my rough out grinding. It is set up with the 3 step pulley which delivers a great range of speeds for knife work. I have my old Bader so I leave it set at a lower speed for finishing. If I had to choose between the two the Bader would have to go. About 40 years ago Buster Warinski told me to mount my grinder on a pad of rubber to help take out the vibrations and harmonics. I still do this. If you can score a rubber pad from some old belting or horse trailer bed liner you might give it a try. I hope you let us know how this new grinder works out. I wish you well, LP

[rockhound]

Hi Larry, thank you for that advice and I will do that. I have not had time to assemble nor try the grinder yet due to a heavy volume of work with my business and mining at this time. I just ordered an assortment of belts from Tru-Grit so I'll be ready to give it a twirl once winter sets in up here... that's when my biz slows and I have time for knifemaking. I will update!

[rockhound]

I have finally found time to set it up. I must say, it is extremely well constructed and the few welds are of high quality. I had purchased their wiring and switch kit and it wasn't too difficult to install. I have not bolted the base plate to the bench but will if I feel it's necessary. I will likely purchase a small wheel attachment for it next.

KMG 1 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

KMG 2 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

Larry, I followed your advice and installed a dampening pad under the base. This is 3/8" Firestone rooftop-walkway mat made from fiber-reinforced EPDM rubber. I used to work on skyscrapers and this was something I had leftover for years and knew I'd find a use for it some day.
Firestone Matting by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

[Crex]

Hey Rockhound! Been a long time, digging must be good this year. Congrats on the KMG, great grinder that should last you a lifetime. I've got 6", 8" and 10" wheels but seem to mainly just use the ten. I also have the yoke arm and three sizes of the small radius wheels (I think they are 3/4, 1, and 1 1/4), which I use a lot when finishing out handles (don't do as much steel grinding as most).
Looks to "clean" right now, time to make some dust.
Something I didn't do but have seen a lot of others do (and kind of wish I had) is paint all the raw steel except for the arms - they got to slide and are too tight a fit for paint job. That little bit of dipping water spray will eventually get some rust going on the raw steel. Nothing serious, just looks bad. I've been too covered up with work to strip her down and do a quick spray job, but plan to some day.
Happy digging and grinding my Friend.

[rockhound]

Hi Carl! Very nice to hear from you. Yup, the Gold has been pretty good this year and my small business has been steady. I'm looking forward to some time off this winter. I just might disassemble the KMG and paint as you suggested. Now would be the best time since I have not really used it yet.

[rockhound]

Home from work today due to some early snow so I have disassembled the grinder and am preparing to paint. I ordered a rattle-can of PlastiKote Bedliner which is a superb coating product with a light texture. I have used it for years on external Jeep components and have great faith that it will perform equally well for this application. It can be easily touched-up at any time and blends perfectly, very durable.
I have also decided to paint the non-contact parts of the steel platen attachment (not the aluminum apparatus). Since this is a high-heat part I will be using engine primer and engine enamel (good to 500 degrees). Not excited about the color but it is Hemi Orange leftover from my Jeep. It also has worked well for years under the hood so I expect that it will handle life on the platen well.
I plan to order a glass platen plate and attach it to the platen. Before painting, I will weld a lip at the bottom of the platen as suggested in threads here to help support the glass in case of adhesion failure.
Platen Painting by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

[Ed Caffrey]

Just use some thought before you apply the paint! I've owned KMG grinders for years, and the mistake I made when I painted my first one was not realizing the tolerances at most "contact" points..... I disassembled it, and once I had painted everything an tried to reassemble, I found that the only way I could get parts such as the idler arm back in place was to blast the paint I'd just applied off.

After that experience I leave the machines fully assembled, and tape off areas not to be painted/coated. Works much better, with far less frustration.

[rockhound]

Roger that Ed, I considered that prior to painting any parts. I know exactly what you mean and appreciate the advice.
As an example, this is the idler wheel pivot I painted yesterday. As you can see, I masked the contact surfaces as not to interfere with the tolerances. I will not be coating the large tool arm at all, maybe light oil coat occasionally.
Pivot Arm by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

[rockhound]

Idler arm pictured.
"X" area will be masked as well as the inside of the wheel pivot brace. (waiting for more paint to arrive Weds)
Idler Arm by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

[rockhound]

A quick update on this. I have finished painting and everything went well. Thought I would take a few pics because it will never be as clean as this again.

KMG paint 1 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

KMG paint 2 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

Glass platen installed using JB. Lip welded to bottom edge for safety. I used slack belts to round the leading and trailing edges of the glass platen. I did not round the sides. Heat painted.
Pyro ceramic platen by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

[Crex]

Lookin Good!

[rockhound]

Thanks Carl! Now... I just need to learn how to use it.
Looking forward to a winter of ruining perfectly good steel.