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Fit & Finish Fit and Finish = the difference in "good art" and "fine art." Join in, as we discuss the fine art of finish and embellishment.

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  #1  
Old 02-19-2008, 09:15 PM
S Nabinger S Nabinger is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Forged finish on blade

I forged a few blades last week and I want to leave the hammer marks on the ricasso and spine of the blades and do a hand rubbed finish on the flat grind. I would like it to look dark gray (like scale). Is it possible to just leave the scale and coat it with something (if so, what should I coat it with?) or should I try to remove the scale and achieve the dark color using some other method? Thank you.
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2008, 09:38 PM
EdgarFigaro EdgarFigaro is offline
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You could soak it in vinegar to remove the scale, but the steel would still have the texture.
Then heat treat using an oil that will leave the black film on the blade. I've been using veggie oil. Then when you go to polish just polish the flats.

That might be an idea.


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  #3  
Old 02-19-2008, 10:12 PM
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B.Finnigan B.Finnigan is offline
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I like to use an EDM stone to go over the heat pitting to knock off the high spots so even though it's rough it will have an even texture. 20% vinegar will give it a gray aged look after a few soak and steel wool carding cycles. My avatar knife pic was done that way.
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  #4  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:37 AM
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Alan L Alan L is offline
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If you want it even more rustic-looking that what Brent and Beau suggest above, I've been known to run a knotted wire cup brush over the piece after forging, then do the grinds, then heat and coat with a mix of beeswax, turpentine, and linseed oil. Of course, as Beau said, if you do an oil quench that'll darken the rough spots as well. I just like to clean the quench oil off and recoat with the wax/oil goo. I think it's a tougher finish, applied at about 300 degrees F. Just hot enough to smoke it.
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  #5  
Old 02-20-2008, 10:16 AM
S Nabinger S Nabinger is offline
 
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thanks for the advice. I have a few blades so I will experiment a little and see what happens. I already edge quenched and tempered them, but I wil still try the wax/oil mix that Alan L suggested (i wasn't even thinking at the time that its probably not a good idea to just leave them how they were after forging). I think that is the finish I am looking for. thanks
Stacy
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  #6  
Old 02-20-2008, 05:38 PM
EdgarFigaro EdgarFigaro is offline
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The oil wax sounds like an interesting finish. I'll have to keep that in mind and try it sometime.
This was one where I just left the as quenched oil on it, and then we polished up the grind area some.


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  #7  
Old 02-21-2008, 11:47 AM
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Alan L Alan L is offline
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Here's an example of what that linseed oil/beeswax finish looks like on a wire-brushed piece. The scalping axe at top is just brushed, the hawk head at bottom is brushed and waxed.



These were not as heavily pitted as Beau's blade above, but you get the idea. By the way, I LIKE that little knife, man. The look is similar, but I think the wax gives extra protection. It's what I use on fireplace tools and such.
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  #8  
Old 02-21-2008, 01:03 PM
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NJStricker NJStricker is offline
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I assume you use parafin wax and oil--peanut oil? in what ratios?
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2008, 02:01 PM
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Alan L Alan L is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armory414
I assume you use parafin wax and oil--peanut oil? in what ratios?
No and no (see post #4 above).

It's the old classic boiled linseed oil/turpentine/beeswax finish smiths have been using on ornamental work for years. One quart boiled linseed oil mixed with one pint turpentine, CAREFULLY heat while adding a pint of grated beeswax (about half a pound) and one 16-once can of Butcher's brand or Johnson & Johnson paste wax, keep warm and stir until all the beeswax melts and the mix is a creamy paste. You can add Japan drier or cobalt drier if you want, but it's not necessary, just makes it dry faster with a harder skin and renders it deathly poisonous instead of mildly so.

To use it, apply to the piece after all surface prep and heat treating you want to do is finished, with the piece warmed up to about 250-300 degrees F.

Edited to correct the recipe after I forgot the paste wax.

Last edited by Alan L; 02-21-2008 at 06:34 PM.
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  #10  
Old 02-21-2008, 02:55 PM
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NJStricker NJStricker is offline
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oops--I guess I did read that. Serves me right for trying to function on 2 hrs. sleep. Thanks for providing more detail.
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  #11  
Old 02-21-2008, 06:32 PM
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Alan L Alan L is offline
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That's okay, I forgot the most important ingredient! It's been two years since I mixed any up, and after I posted the thought kept nagging me until I remembered what it was: One 16-ounce tin of either Butchers' Paste Wax or Johnson Floor Wax. I'm editing the other post to include it.
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  #12  
Old 02-21-2008, 09:25 PM
EdgarFigaro EdgarFigaro is offline
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My little blade wasn't heavily pitted!
It was textured! *pouts*

*chuckles* After forging to shape I went over the surface with the pein end of the ball pein to get the texture. Most of it was ground off when doing the grind which was a bit of a hollow grind.

I'll make a note of that mixture. Might have to make some to use on rough forged stuff. Looks neato!


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  #13  
Old 02-22-2008, 09:50 AM
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Alan L Alan L is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdgarFigaro
My little blade wasn't heavily pitted!
It was textured! *pouts*

That's what I meant, I could tell it was deliberate. The oil/wax would be good for that. It's more of a varnish than an oil film, and is as tough as Rennaissance wax but with a slight amber cast instead of that flaky white that Renwax can leave in low spots. Plus it smells good!
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