ryobi bandsaw, should I return it?

[mldolan]

Hi all,
I am a little new to all of this, but have been building kit knives for a while and slowly adding equipment to my shop. I currently have a 16" scroll saw, a buffer/polishing setup, belt/disk sander, tabletop drill press, and I just got a ryobi band saw for christmas. I am a little dissapointed in the lack of control I have when cutting slabs out of blocks of wood. the blade seems to bend and flex and I can't cut a straight line. is there something that I am doing wrong in the setup? it seems to me that the scroll saw can do everything that the bandsaw can do, just a little slower, and with more precision. shoud I take it back? if so what piece of equipment do you recommend I replace it with? and those of you with band saws was it the primary use that you put it to?
thanks
Mike in MD

[MJ Hofbauer]

If you are referring to that 9" bandsaw, they are pretty much a piece of junk. No mini-bandsaw really performs at all well. I'd strongly recommend getting a full sized one. Mini's tend to always have tracking problems, not to mention they are under powered for most situations. If you plan to keep it two things to note on 'flexing', one, make sure to lower the guide down to an 1/8" or so above the work you are cutting. It helps to add stability. Two is the blade you are using, quality and size of the blade matters, mind you I don't know any quality blades for that size saw. If space is a problem, I guess they can be used but I wouldn't use one myself. -MJ

[mldolan]

but i am really not sure what i can use it for that my other equipment cant handle, can you think of any? it's probably going back.
mike

[SharpByCoop]

Mike, I can only tell you that the machine I work on for 85% of my kits is the special Kalamazoo 1x42" sander with the horizontal table/platen that KnifeKits makes. I change the small roller to a 1/2" sleeve sometimes, and *really* get the small curves done nicely and square.

It's worth every penny they ask because it will save you a fortune in frustration and time savings.

That's my call.

Coop

[SVanderkolff]

I think it really depends on what you are looking to use it for. IF you are going to be cutting any syeel at all I would trade it in on one of the harbor freight horizontal vertical bandsaws. It will also do you slabs for handles just fairly slowly but it does hold a straight line and can be used for any of your metal cutting needs.
Steve

[Geno]

Scroll saws are for cutting fancy letters and such, not bulk.
Inlays are the exception, a fine scroll saw can help produce awesome inlays.
My .02

[L6steel]

Mike, I bought the same saw and had the same problem. Thought I'd wasted my money. One day I decided to try tightening the blade up some so I cranked it down a little and it works fine now. I"ve used alot of different brands and sizes of band saws and never had one where the blade needed to be run tight but evidently this one is made to be. Haven't had a bit of trouble out of it since.

[Gary Mulkey]

Mike,

Something that will make a huge difference in the performance of the saw is to go to a thicker blade. Most of the 9" saws come with a blade that is .018" thick which wanders badly. I have gone to having blades made out of .025" blade stock and don't have the problems with my saw anymore.

Note: I have never found anyone who stocks blades of this thickness for a nine inch saw because they think it is too thick for that small of a wheel. Nonsense. They work just fine only you will have to have them made to length for your saw. I recommend 1/8" or 1/4" wide with a 12-14 tooth. If you get into the 8-10 tooth blades the saw won't have the horse power to handle them well.

Hope this helps,

Gary

[hammerdownnow]

Having a wood saw AND a metal saw is livin high on the hog.

[Geno]

Wheeeeew Doggieeeeeeeeeeees