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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Using Mosaic pins
ok I did a search for what I wanted but did not come up with exactly what I was looking for. What I am curious about is when you use a mosaic pin in 1/4" for handle pins....do you drill a 1/4" hole to insert them and tap them trhough?? or you you go up to the size F drill bit in order to not force it though the wood and possibly crack the handle material. I am aware that a 1/4" hole is .250 and usually a .250 rod will not fit through a .250 hole without the use of some force. The size F drill bit is .270 and .03 bigger seems like it would leave too much of a noticable gap. would the answer be just to taper the pin a bit on the end before tapping it through?
Am I wrong in this assumption ? __________________ Byron WItty Member TKCA "A good friend is someone you can call to bail you out of jail. A TRUE friend would be sitting next to you saying how did we get into this s#$%!!" |
#2
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I use a 1/4" bit. However, I sand the outside of the 1/4" mosiac pins by hand. This makes them a touch smaller and leaves scratches around the outside of the pin. File a small ring around the pin in the center. The pin fits through with a tap of a small hammer and the sanding scratches help hold the pin in. The ring allows for more epoxy to help hold the pin.
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#3
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A size F drill is .257 which is .007 over a 1/4 drill, which leaves a .0035 gap. A gap that size isn't hard to fill with good epoxy.
Why not just try Bob's method and try an F drill, then make up your own mind. You don't have to use an expensive mosaic pin on a real knife. Use a 1/4 rod, a piece if mild steel for the 'tang', and some scrap wood....... |
#4
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bah I mistyped in my post...yes it is .07 over not .03.....Thanks for the info guys I'll try both!
__________________ Byron WItty Member TKCA "A good friend is someone you can call to bail you out of jail. A TRUE friend would be sitting next to you saying how did we get into this s#$%!!" |
#5
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I do as Bob says with one addition. My 1/4" holes are reemed before the mosaic pin goes through. I find that this keeps me from having to sand the pin. And a notch towards the center is always a good idea for the epoxy to hold onto. Thant's been my experience so far.
Chris |
#6
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I use an inexpensive hand pipe cutter tool from Sears ( @$5.00) and run rings around the pin for the epoxy to adhere to.
__________________ Mark www.saintmarkknives.com |
#7
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I'm with Bob. That's exactly what I do, except the hand part. I put the pin in a drill. Run the drill and pinch the paper while it spins.
Guess I'm just lazy. Steve |
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