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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 08-07-2012, 01:32 PM
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Eli, thank you. I followed your advice on the profile grinding and will also follow your advice when attempting the bevel regarding quench. Much appreciated!
I am now using my belt sander (mounted vertically) to remove the natural pitting in the steel.
My progress thus far....


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  #17  
Old 08-07-2012, 02:01 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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You did real well on that profile.

Doug


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  #18  
Old 08-09-2012, 07:22 AM
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Thanks Doug! Achieving the profile wasn't very difficult... even for a noober like me. I'm at the point now of creating the bevels. I cut another identical profile (from free leaf spring steel) for practicing my bevels.
But... I chickened out. After researching many techniques for bevel grinding, angle jigs, etc, I've decided to hold off until I can at least get a 1"X30" belt grinder to do this. The bevel on this profile will be large and I don't want to spend from now until Christmas doing it with my Mill file. I certainly don't want to attempt it with my 3"X23" common belt sander.


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  #19  
Old 08-09-2012, 08:21 AM
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If you wouldn't attempt that grind with a 3x23" then I doubt you'll find a 1x30" to be any better. I did a pen knife blade on a 1x30" and can't imagine doing anything much larger than that on it. No power.

There are coarser files that cut faster. It shouldn't take that long to cut bevels if you have the right file ....


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  #20  
Old 08-09-2012, 06:34 PM
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Ok, thanks.


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  #21  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:39 AM
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Ray, I took your advice and am having a go at it with the hand files. You're right, I can remove material pretty fast with this method and with accuracy. I'm pushing my file strokes toward the spine in one direction. I know well enough not to make it sharp before sending off to HT.
One question I have.... when I reach the top of the bevel (where I want the bevel to terminate and will be visible on the blade profile), how do I keep that line clean (a sweeping upturned curve with the blade shape)? I'm guessing that I can do this freehand with a fine file but if there's any techniques or tips that anyone uses, I'd surely appreciate the info. I'd like a fairly crispy line there if possible.
Thanks!



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  #22  
Old 08-11-2012, 10:26 AM
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I'm gettin there with the first bevel, here's my progress so far.


Being careful not to violate my center line.


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  #23  
Old 08-11-2012, 11:06 AM
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Keeping a clean grind line just takes practice, practice, practice. You could put a file guide on it but with that curve it wouldn't be easy. The final crisp line is made by sneaking up on it with finer and finer grits so that the final line is as scratchless as possible. At least, that's how I attempt to do it. Finally, I sand the flat part above the bevel against a piece of sandpaper laying on a granite surface plate (a sheet of glass will do). Often, that will clean up the final grind line a bit more ....


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Old 08-11-2012, 11:29 AM
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Thank you again Ray! I will take your advice. Much appreciated.


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  #25  
Old 08-11-2012, 06:09 PM
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well... I am now getting a nice line and have hit the bevel with a #150 sanding stick.
After checking the bevel with my straight-edge I noticed that it is slightly convex.... back to the file.


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  #26  
Old 08-11-2012, 08:17 PM
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I've found that half the trick to getting the lines straight and also matching on both sides is starting with a bar of steel that has perfectly parallel sides. That's why I bought a surface grinder. Even then, I have trouble some times. If you have a convex side you may have to settle for a little less than perfect lines ....


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  #27  
Old 08-12-2012, 07:57 AM
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Eventually I'll get a belt grinder, but now ya gots me a thinkin.
I have two lapidary machines with numerous abrasive options.... hmmmmm.


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  #28  
Old 08-12-2012, 04:07 PM
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.... anyway, back to the hand-filing. I'm getting the bevel flat now by tracing a line with my Sharpie on the top and bottom of the bevel first. Then... using my bastard mill file, I'm staying within the lines and very gradually knocking it down, making every file stroke count. My bevel is really close to flat now. I think the slight convexity problem was due to my initial lack of filing skills. I'm getting better at flat filing and learning from my mistakes. So far all of my mistakes have been minimal and only resulted in more work for myself... which is a fitting punishment.

I've started at the ricasso and am working my way toward the tip. Haven't gotten to the curve yet.


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  #29  
Old 08-12-2012, 04:39 PM
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Brian Ducker Brian Ducker is offline
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WOWWWW!!
Memories of doing it by hand!
Well Done i love your progress and your enthusiasm.
it is got to be the best feeling in the world when you have hand filed a knife.
Thanks for showing.
Brian
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  #30  
Old 08-13-2012, 05:48 AM
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Chris
You can also flatten out the convex (or concave) issues by learning to carefully drawfile with a fine cut file. Pulling from the plunge cut to the tip in a steady sweeping motion, you can follow the break-point at the bevel to keep it clean and neat and still get everything "Flat" to the edge. High and or low spots will show boldly after a couple of draws.
This is also a learned skill that will take some practice, but once learned will give you true flats with much less chance of human error, because the strokes are long and smooth with more file to metal contact, not short and small as when you go from edge to bevel break.
That's how I remove the final light divots on my forged blades. Very fast and efficient when you learn how. I often use a marker to cover the entire section to be filed as it highlights the issue areas (high and low spots) that need attention.

Your blade is looking very good by the way.


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