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The Damascus Forum The art and study of Damascus steel making.

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Old 06-05-2008, 11:43 PM
M.Logan's Avatar
M.Logan M.Logan is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 11
Exclamation Hand Forging A billet of Damascus

Here are some pictures of me, forging a billet by hand. My materials are 1060 sping steel, mild steel 1010, wrout iron & some high carbon tool steel. I left the pure iron in the center, as it does not harden, when quenched in the oil. But it ecthes out really dark & is a great contrast, in the billet all be making a full tang knife. more pictures soon.

May I add their are many people who have inspiered me whit their talent here, thanks.


Last edited by M.Logan; 06-05-2008 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 06-08-2008, 02:23 AM
Don Halter's Avatar
Don Halter Don Halter is offline
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 1,261
Nice pics! It's always nice to see other's setup. Looks like you have lots of room in there.

Interesting that you get the pure iron to come out dark. Using ferric chloride on 10XX steels, the higher the carbon content, the darker it etches for me. High carbon-high manganese steel being the almost black. Using wrought iron, I get swirls of all shades and mild (1018) doesn't etch much at all and comes out very light.

Don "Krag" Halter

Last edited by Don Halter; 06-08-2008 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 06-08-2008, 10:29 PM
M.Logan's Avatar
M.Logan M.Logan is offline
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Posts: 11

Hay Krag, I cant get any of the ferric acid , so I use phosphoric acid? maybe I goofed & got it backwards? My BADdddd. My first times using the wrought iron.I did do 2- blades this weekend from that billet & I got exactly what you stated,from the super black lines- to swirls- to med/light grays. more pictures soon. The resone I thought the wrought Iron was coming out black was because I made 2- seperet billets, purpesly leaveing the wrought in the middel of the billet. ( SEE MY CAD DIAGRAMS )

1 -(0-1 ) TOOL STEEL
2-1060 spring steel
3- 1010/1020 mild steel
4- 2% refined wrouht Iron.

When I fineshed making the two sets of billets I put them wrought iron side to wrought iron side faceing in the middle.0-1 tool steel on the outside. (Please keep in mind I'm not making all high carbon Damascus like 1095 / L-6 combo.Now after geeting all the forge welding done I rotate the billet 90% dergrees & hamer straight down on that axis- thus me knowing were & what steel is in what order. my Good freind JR. told me not to rotate the billet & hit down on it because, the billet wants to de-laminate if hit that way. I figured out their is were all the groving & semi-drilling on the billet on the flat-side & then hmering, thus bring-up the material & showing the rose-swirl & or lines or whatever.
Now I aslo read someware that rotating the billet at 180 degress & hamering down on the billet is rare & extreamly hard to achive because of the stresses being put on the billet & the posibility of de-lamination & that it's called a straight pattern? I don't know? I just did it like that so I new were the wrought was at, I didnt want it on the sharp side- or at the spine , to soft of a spine. My freind gave it to me to play whit & it was intresting to hammer, very tuff material!! I would apreciate any comments & or help on the above mentioned topics.

Last edited by M.Logan; 06-10-2008 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:16 PM
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atakach atakach is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: herminie
Posts: 96
i dont figure you would have put wrought in the core, as a center piece, because it would never cut anything!!!



Takach Forge Since 2004

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