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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 03-13-2015, 06:46 PM
AllanBeasley AllanBeasley is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Roswell, Georgia
Posts: 133
Made an Angry Victor for myself.

I present to you the Angry Victor. Made one for myself after letting the last one go. This one is a leaf spring, oil quenched, tempered at 430 degrees for an hour and a half. I made the scales out of a chunk of oak wall trim we had laying around and used a Sedona Red stan & seal on it. I didn't polish the scales, I like the look as-is and I made it for me unless someone peels off about $200 to compensate me for the two days I spent working on it. The scales are NOT identical, I worked it on the sander until it was comfortable and at-home in MY hand. I love the end result, I got probably the cleanest (still not perfect) bezel I've gotten so far and to all outward appearances it should last a lifetime and then some. I took it outside and attacked some logs before final sharpening and I was astounded at how well it bit even when dull. Thank you to everyone that kept at me to work my bevels farther up, I know that was the difference. I left the hammer marks on that one side for the aesthetic value, the pic makes it look like there's still curve but it's as straight as possible. The grind on the back is funky because I didn't want this one looking too pristine.



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  #2  
Old 03-13-2015, 06:48 PM
AllanBeasley AllanBeasley is offline
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Side note, my knife forge WILL NOT handle any more blade than this. This is the absolute outer limit for blade size from me right now.
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  #3  
Old 03-13-2015, 07:50 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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When you say that your forge won't handle a bigger knife than that do you mean that it won't heat it for hardening? A solution for that would be to have a port on the back side of the forge that you can stick the far end of the blade out of. You just work the blade back and forth to heat it evenly. With practice you could probably heat a blade twice the length than the depth of your forge.

As far as forging goes I have a forge that is 7" deep and I could theoretically forge a 36" sword blade in it because all you can really work with your hammer is about 3-4" at a time.

To be honest, I'm really prejudice against forge finishes and think that few can bring them off well, though I have to admit that you did pretty good. I would also suggest that you clean up the spine a little better to get rid of the nicks and hollows

All in all you are definitely showing improvement.

Doug


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  #4  
Old 03-13-2015, 08:05 PM
AllanBeasley AllanBeasley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Lester View Post
When you say that your forge won't handle a bigger knife than that do you mean that it won't heat it for hardening? A solution for that would be to have a port on the back side of the forge that you can stick the far end of the blade out of. You just work the blade back and forth to heat it evenly. With practice you could probably heat a blade twice the length than the depth of your forge.

As far as forging goes I have a forge that is 7" deep and I could theoretically forge a 36" sword blade in it because all you can really work with your hammer is about 3-4" at a time.

To be honest, I'm really prejudice against forge finishes and think that few can bring them off well, though I have to admit that you did pretty good. I would also suggest that you clean up the spine a little better to get rid of the nicks and hollows

All in all you are definitely showing improvement.

Doug
THANK YOU for the compliment, that's tough to come by around here so far. And my forge is an Atlas factory-built number. I don't want to try cutting it up for a port I may not use any time soon. Next yer when taxes come back in I'm gonna take a look at buying a lager overall forge, I THOUGHT this one was gonna be bigger, and it was still a bit above my price range. I had to make the jump for the Grizzly this year so I had a workshop. I debated cleaning the spine up but I wanted the nicks and hollows there. I wanted SOME contrast between the forge finish and the shine of the steel without making it look too pristine. The bevel by itself didn't feel like enough of a contrast.
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  #5  
Old 03-13-2015, 11:47 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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IMG_0146_1.JPG

IMG_0147_1.JPGYou might want to consider building your next forge. Even if you feel that a venturi burner is a little above you to build you could always just get that part and build the body. These are my two forges. The large one is build in a large mail box. It's lined with ceramic fiber and coated with a refractory cement. The smaller one is the forge that gets the most use. It's cast from Cast-O-Lite castable refractory. All the iron parts are from a hardware store along with the brass nipples and gate valves. The brass valves I got from High Temperature Tools and Refractory. You can get the ceramic fiber, I think the carry Ins-wool, and the refractory also.

The burners are blown but they are easier build that venturi burners. The air source is a bounce house blower that I picked up used from Ebay.

Doug


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  #6  
Old 03-14-2015, 07:04 AM
AllanBeasley AllanBeasley is offline
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Good point, Doug. I may just order the burner and fire blanket. I could do the rest, the burner was what stopped me. Also I don't have a welder. My last built forge was a series of terrible ideas stacked on top of each other trying to get it done for free.
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  #7  
Old 03-14-2015, 08:45 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Burners don't have to be expensive or complicated. In my forge building video I built several burners. One forced air burner was built on the cheap using a bench grinder motor, a $11 squirrel cage, a plastic bucket, a hand made wooded gate valve, and some PVC pipe. The total cost was almost nothing and the design ridiculously simple but it works great. Too much of the burner building information on the internet is overly complicated ...


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  #8  
Old 03-14-2015, 10:25 AM
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BCROB BCROB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Lester View Post
Attachment 15195

Attachment 15196You might want to consider building your next forge. Even if you feel that a venturi burner is a little above you to build you could always just get that part and build the body. These are my two forges. The large one is build in a large mail box. It's lined with ceramic fiber and coated with a refractory cement. The smaller one is the forge that gets the most use. It's cast from Cast-O-Lite castable refractory. All the iron parts are from a hardware store along with the brass nipples and gate valves. The brass valves I got from High Temperature Tools and Refractory. You can get the ceramic fiber, I think the carry Ins-wool, and the refractory also.

The burners are blown but they are easier build that venturi burners. The air source is a bounce house blower that I picked up used from Ebay.

Doug
Like be the mail box idea Doug !!


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