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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 06-18-2014, 11:27 AM
remist17 remist17 is offline
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Starting my first knife from scratch

I am going to start my first knife from scratch. I have done some kit knifes before. I purchased some 1084 steel and before I wreck the first blank I would like to explain my understanding of the process and see if it is correct. If I am wrong please point it out.

-Cut the design out of the steel
-Use a belt sander with 35 to 60 grit paper to start making your grinds. I have a 1x30.
-Mark on the knife the start point of the grind and carry it up the blade
-Make two or three passes per side then switch to the other side and make the same number of passes.
- end thickness at the cutting edge is around 1.6mm
-After this is complete clean up with a file and hand sand to desired near finished look.
-Heat treat in 2 brick forge to 1450 degrees or a little past non magnetic.
-Quench in canola oil that is 120F
-Wipe off oil
-put in stove at 400 F for 30 minutes let cool. Then another 30 minutes at 400 F
-Let knife cool
-Finish sharpen with diamond blocks.

My concern is that I take enough off at the grind stage that I can sharpen it at the end. am I close?
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2014, 11:40 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Almost. Use 60 grit rather than 35, it's difficult enough to remove 60 grit scratches without making things any worse.

You have a 1x30 so make your blade no more than 4" long, less would be better. If you don't know why I say that now, you will understand as soon as you start grinding.

Edge thickness about the thickness of a dime. the idea is that the edge needs to be thick enough not to warp during the heat treatment.

Sand to about 220 grit, make sure to remove all the scratches from the last grit before going to the next. Stop at 220.

Do the heat treat, your idea of the process is close enough.

For the temper, use 425F for one hour, twice as you have described. 30 minutes is not enough. The higher temp will give you a slightly softer blade and you'll need that for the next step.

After the HT is finished then go back to 220 grit on your 1x30 and try to thin the blade down a little so that the edge is about .020 thick. Once that is done, continue sanding with the belt and/or by hand with finer grits to get your final finish.

DO NOT sharpen the blade until you have the handle on it and the knife is completely finished. Sharpening is the last step ....


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  #3  
Old 06-18-2014, 11:49 AM
remist17 remist17 is offline
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thank you. Im still going to wait for your video. I am just putting a general procedure together so I dont forget.
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2014, 12:19 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I'm working on the video today, hope to have it finished this week...


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  #5  
Old 06-19-2014, 11:12 AM
remist17 remist17 is offline
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Quick question on the process:
-Do I let the blade cool to room temperature during the heat treat and then put it back in the oven?
-After HT and completed the edge to .020" am I sanding the blade or the edge down more. I am thinking the blade section.
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:06 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Heat to non-mag, quench in oil - blade stays in the oil until it cools enough to touch bare handed. Then, clean off the oil and temper for one hour, cool to room temp, temper again.

After HT there will be scale, crap, possible little pits and other undesirable appearances. You continue sanding to repair the finish as well as to continue reducing the blade thickness (the whole blade) down to a reasonably thin edge....


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  #7  
Old 06-19-2014, 07:14 PM
remist17 remist17 is offline
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Thank you sir! I have a better idea now. I bought some soft bricks and should be arriving tomorrow. Do I put the forge hole all the way through or stop prior to getting through the back? I understand the torch hole goes at the bottom towards the center.
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:49 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I would suggest you try leaving the back closed at first. If it doesn't work out the open the back...


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  #9  
Old 06-20-2014, 09:06 AM
Jacktheknife Jacktheknife is offline
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Ray,


What video?... sounds like something I really need!


Jack...?
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2014, 09:25 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Jack,

The video I'm working on now is about building forges and burners. There seems to be a lot of confusion about that among the new makers so I figured I'd start there since most guys need a forge for heat treating (at least). In the video so far I have built a forge body and burner for under $100 with all new parts including regulator, in under 2 hours (once the parts are gathered) - and that's with a forced air burner, it can be cheaper and faster with a simple venturi burner. The forced air version exceeded 2000F in about 10 minutes from a cold start. This forge is big enough to handle at least an 8" blade. The video should be ready in another week or so ....


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  #11  
Old 06-20-2014, 11:12 AM
remist17 remist17 is offline
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Thank you, should get the bricks next tuesday sometime.
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2014, 12:45 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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One thing you should add, after quenching check to make sure it got hard. Do this with a small triangle file to see if it cuts into the edge. If the file cuts you did something wrong, if it skips it was correct. Good luck.
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  #13  
Old 06-20-2014, 08:40 PM
remist17 remist17 is offline
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Ok added to my notes. Ill post my progress I really appreciate the help.
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1084, art, back, belt, blade, design, diamond, edge, file, forge, hand, handle, heat, heat treat, kit, knife, make, making, post, sander, scratch, sharpening, steel, thickness, video


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