HANDLE PINS---How do you--

[humminboid]

Looking at some of the high-priced knives at my favorite cutlery store, I noticed that the pins holding the scales had split the stag scales at the back of the knife . Is there any way to avoid this when making a knife, or do you just mix some epoxy and handle dust, fill the cracks, and finish it like normal? I imagine this is a a real problem with fossilized handle scales and other frangible materials.

[Jason Cutter]

The problem with handle material cracking is not just the pins, but also because the handle materials - natural materials are prone to shrinkage and warpage over time. And yes, traditionally speaking, pins or rivets are "peined" into place as in having the head shammered to expand them to lock the handle slabs into place. With different materials, the amount of hammering, the sort of touch you use will differ.

These days, many makers will not even pein the rivets, given that many cannot be peined. Micarta pins and fibreglass rods etc. are often used as pins and these are just positioned and glued into place. This would be ideal for fragile materials like pearl and others. Also, modern adhesives are strong enough that they will secure the handle quite well on such a knife, that would see little use, if any at all.

When the handle slabs are in place against the tang, there really isn't the sort of prying, lateral stress that would cause the slabs to come away from the tang anyway. However, I am a strong proponent of using pins of a strong material since a sharp blow to the handle slabs can sometimes shear the pin material off at the point of attachment to the tang, especially on materials like a Micarta pin. By comparison, it would be near impossible to shear off a 1/16th inch thick brass rod.

An indirect answer to your question. Jason.

[Chris_Crawford]

I use pins in most all of my knives. When you are dealing with delicate or brittle handel material like pearl, bone, or ivory, you have to be very careful.

One tip is to make sure that your pins are not too close to the edges of the scales. The closer they are to the edge, the more likely they are to cause a crack to form and run from the pin to the edge.

Also, it helps to taper the pin hole a little, and to even use a pin slightly smaller in diameter than the hole. That way you have room for the pin to spread a little when you are peening the head onto it. The taper allows you to grind the pin down smooth with the scales and still leave a head at the surface.

A final tip is to use a very light ball peen hammer, and use very light taps. Work your way around and around the end of the pin until the head forms. Don't get in too big of a hurry. That's when you start cracking handel material.

Hope this helped. -chris