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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#16
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Drill speed is a function of four times the s-factor divided by the diameter of the drill. S for annealed steel is 60 to 70. So, if you use a 1/4 inch drill bit you should run it at 4x60/1/4 or 240x4 which is 960rpm. I bought a machinist's handbook once, just out of curiosity. Amazing some of the stuff I learned from it... I took the most important tables and laminated them, glued them right to the side of my mill (mill speeds, drill speeds, etc.) for reference. I highly recommend it. It was about seven bucks. Heck, I probably saved more on drill bits than that already!
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#17
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NCBoy...I also have had a similar problem with drilling the tang holes. I resolved my problem in two ways...
1.) I modified a drill press to operate at 28 RPM. Doing this enabled me to drill the holes without work hardening the piece. 2.) Another knifemaker told me that it was possible that as I was annealing the blade if I did not take the precaution of preheating my tongs, that when I grabbed to blade to remove it from the forge, the cold tongs could be enough of a quench to actually harden the blade. After taking his advice to heart, I was able to drill the holes easily....so....if you were grabbing the blade by the tang with your tongs, it's possible that your tongs could have been hardening your blade as you removed it from your forge. |
#18
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Good deal, thanks for the info!
Last edited by ATalley; 07-25-2013 at 05:12 AM. |
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1084, 1095, advice, anvil, art, bee, blade, brand, common, drill, easy, grinding, handle, harden, heat, heat treat, help., hot, knife, material, package, press, sand, sharp, steel |
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