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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Attaching bolster pins question.
What is the best was to attach the pinned bolsters, what I mean is when you peen the pins do you use a anvil and put both bolsters on and start peening against the anvil?
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#2
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I start with using a tapered reamer on the pin holes before I put pins in them. I would peen each pin a little at a time swithing from one side to another until you get a nice head going. Polish the ball on your hammer to help it spread the metal easier. Then once you have it down almost all the way, I smack it with a bigger hammer to drive and swell the pins.
It helps to hold the bolster material with needle nosed vice grips so they don't slip when you are spreading the pins. |
#3
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Quote:
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#4
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It helps pull the bolsters down closer to your blade when you are expanding the pins.
Tightens up everything. |
#5
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Anneal your pins if possible.
Light taps with clean faced hammer. It takes very little to hold well. The pins are more for keeping the scales in place against "shear" forces, the epoxy does most of the holding. Stop before you hit it that one last time! __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#6
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great advise Carl , I think we've all been down that road !!
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#7
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Thanks for the info, do y'all think its wise to drill the holes in the bolsters slightly bigger? Not going all the way through of course.
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#8
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Yes you do drill them slightly larger and you do drill all the way through. The key here is to use the same pin material you used on the bolsters. This is where the tapered reamer comes into play. The taper is positioned so the larger end is out on both bolsters. Peen the pins into the tapered holes and you will not be able to get the bolsters off easily. The peening process will push the pin and bolster together and the gap should be so small you cannot see it.
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
#9
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Quote:
Thanks |
#10
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__________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#11
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Thanks rockhound, Could I just use a chamfer bit? I see that Jantz carries the reamers but I'm not sure if you could get them at home depot or lowes, and I already have a chamfer bit.
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#12
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A counter sink bit can be used but I prefer the reamer. The counter sink creates a steep angle to a shallow depth. If you are not careful you can grind under the chamfer and the bolsters could come lose. The best way I have found is using the shallower angle but it is almost full depth of the bolster. There is not way to grind under it and still have a bolster. Also i have found with the counter sink it is harder to peen the pins into the bolster so they cannot be seen. Here is another place you could get one via mail order.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults __________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
Tags |
angle, anvil, art, at home, bee, blade, bolsters, drill, forge, hammer, hand, home, knife, knifemaking, material, pins, polish, post, scales |
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