which files

[seeker]

First i would like to say thanks for all the info on my first posts. You guys are great. It was suggested that I get some files, hand drill, sandpaper, etc, to get me going untill I could afford a decent belt sander. Which files for making the bevels ?
are they special files, or can I pick em up at lowes?
Also, I have some nicholson files, saw blades, chain saw bars, and a leaf spring or two available to use for my steel for now, what are any of your thoughts on me using these materials to get a feel for the process before I start ordering steel?
One more beginners question- Do I need to do anything to these steels before I start profiling and belveling such as annealing etc...???
thanks so much. really.

[dan adams1953]

a $50 drill press will save you many headaches.

[Bob Warner]

Annealing would be required. Chances are if you plan to use files to make a knife the files (or the other materials) used for the knife will be just as hard. You would have to anneal to get the steel soft enough for your good files to do their job.



Those materials make decent knives if you know how to heat treat them.

[Dan Graves]

Yes I agree that you need to anneal all these metals. Your file that you are going to use is probably 1095. The saw blade is probably l-6 or 15n20. If the saw blade has carbide teeth dont use. The springs or probably 5160. I say probably because some manafactures use different materials. But for starting out treat these steels as that they are what they appear to be. Its good for practice before spending money. If the steels are not what they are supposed to be, mark up as good experience. Good luck.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com

[Guy Thomas]

You haven't mentioned whether you have a means to heat steel up in order to anneal it or not, but if you are going to try "found" steels, i.e. old files, leaf springs, saw blades, etc. they will definitly have to be annealed as the other guys have already stated. Most new steel will come in an already annealed state unless other wise noted by the manufacturer or distributor.

For shaping the knives try and pick up some large bstard cut mill files. Sears has a 12" one that is great. They also have a 10" "magicut" or "nu-cut"I believe it's called, that leaves a smoother surface and is a great file. The Nicholson files from Lowe's or Home Depot are as good as Sears but in my opinion aren't up to the quality of the older Nicholson Black Diamond brand files. Get a large half round file also, since knives have lots of curves that you just can't clean up with flat files. As you work you will see the need as it arises for round and triagular files which you can purchase later.

Smaller bastard cut files leave a smoother surface, so you can hog a lot of steel quick with the large file and work to smaller files. Later you can order some "second" cut and "smooth" cut files if you want to pursue making knives with just files. Don't bear down hard with the files, just let them cut with moderate pressure, you'll be surprised how much steel you can remove
in a short amount of time.

A method of filing known as draw filing leaves an even finer finish and is great for making very accurate flats along the bevels. The file is held with the handle in the left hand and the tip in your right hand and the file is drawn toward you (with the file perpendicular to the blade) along the length of the blade. This method can also be used with a push stroke but the file handle must be held in the right hand and the tip in the left hand. I often get a finish that appears to be close to 220 grit finish with just the files by draw filing with bastard cut files and up to 320 grit with finer cut files.

Always have a handle of some kind on your files! Buy a file card (a special brush for cleaning your files, both Lowe's and Home Depot carry them) to keep chips cleaned out of the teeth, though a light tap of the file on the bench will usually knock most of the filings off of the file. There was something else I wanted to mention but it's getting late and I'm brain dead. I've probably said too much as it is. Hope this has helped some. Enjoy your filing! (A good strudy, heavy vise is very helpful when making knives with files.)

[Bob Warner]

Golf Balls


They make great file handles. Just drill a hole in them and tap the file tang in. Fit perfectly in the palm of your hand.

[Terry Primos]

For hogging steel I'd use either the Magicut (that was mentioned above) or rasp type file that cuts in both directions. I can't really tell you how I decide which one to use at any given time. I really just seems to be according to my mood.

This can be followed by a bastard file, a mill bastard, and lathe bastard, which gives the smoothest finish.

Use your files in one direction only, and keep them cleaned out.

Little pieces of the steel can get trapped between the teeth, and will dig a deep rut in your work. It's called galling. To prevent galling, you might want to invest in a file card. It's a little brush with short, stiff bristles that is used to clean out the pieces of steel lodged between the teeth.

There have been quite a few tips on keeping the teeth of the files clean such as rubbing the file with chalk before using. Forumite, Max Burnette (Max The Knife) gave a tip that I really like. It does work well. Every few strokes, whack the file on the edge of the workbench, a board, etc. You'll see little particles come showering off the file. You will still want to keep an eye out for larger pieces that are jammed up tighlty between the teeth though.