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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Wooden scale finishes?
I have several maple and a set of curly birch scales here for future projects. I was hoping to gain some insight as to what kind of finishes are typical for working and show knives.
Typically I would apply some linseed oil, shellac or polyurethane, but that would be for an article of furniture, not a knife. Thanks for your input. Dan |
#2
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lots of people use birchwood casey tru oil
__________________ Austin Colvin |
#3
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I would stay away from the shellac or poly for knife handles. They tend to give an artificial feel to the wood. Boiled linseed oil is popular but there are others who prefer some of the other drying oils, such as the Tru Oil.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#4
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I experimented with a CA finish and really liked it. It's cheap, easy, and looks great. It kinda has a silky feel to it. I did mine on walnut and it came out very similar to a satin finish on a Remington rifle stock. The knife was a gift for my dad and is actually my avatar/profile picture. He seems to like it so far and I'll surely hear about it if he doesn't. He's very not shy!
__________________ You can take laxatives and you can take a sleeping pill. Just don't ever take them at the same time! |
#5
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Hey Dan, I've had good luck with tung oil.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#6
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Tru-oil would be very good as it is time tested on many gunstocks over the years. I prefer to ship my wood out and have a commercial company stabilize it. all I have to do then is sand to 600 grit and polish it on a buffing wheel for a beatiful shine that will hold up.
__________________ RELH |
#7
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I agree with Bob about stabilizing but in Dans case it sounds like the wood is already cut into scales so stabilizing is out of the question now.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#8
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Hi,
Thanks for the great info. Q: Does Tru-oil need to be reapplied periodically? I would have never thought of using cyanoacrylate as wood finish. I searched out a video which looks quite promising from the WoodWorker's Guild of America. Although it's a pen turning, one would think the same basic application principles would apply to any wood handle. Certainly looks like some experimentation is in the works. I'll also pick up some Tru-oil and give it a try. Cheers, Dan |
#9
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Not one to leave a thread hanging...I rustled up some Tru-Oil on the weekend. To say that I am impressed would be an understatement! I applied a coat, waited a few hours and and lightly worked it with a Scotch-Brite pad (in lieu of 00 steel wool). Repeat and one final coat.
It's hard to capture the depth in a photograph, but I think this gives one an idea. It may not be for all, but if you want that wet, gloss look this stuff is the cat's meow. I hope it is hard wearing as suggested. Thanks for your input guys. I will try some cyanoacrylate on another project and report back my findings. Dan |
Tags |
apply, back, birch, coat, curly birch, easy, glue, handle, knife, knives, linseed oil, maple, polish, polyurethane, project, sand, satin finish, scales, shellac, stabilizing, steel, tips, video, what kind, wood |
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