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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #1  
Old 04-13-2003, 07:11 PM
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floridafred floridafred is offline
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Kydex and leather

Hi guys, I was wondering if someone might give me a little help. The sheath in the picture is Kydex with felt liner and aligator embossed leather on the outside. With the felt liner my hard work at mirrror polishing is protected up to a point from the scratches associated with Kydex. The knife draws really nice against the felt and is held in the sheath firmly. I would like to try a leather liner. It would have to be thin and flexible. I am leather challenged and have no idea what might work. I would appreciate any suggestion but would need detail as to what I should order and from whom.



To make matters even worse I would like to stitch the sheath closed instead of using rivets. I think this would be a practical way of closing the sheath but also for appearance. This type of sheath looks strange due to the lack of stitching. I would need to drill through the kydex and leather. Again I don't know what type of needle thread or tools I would need. Please don't take this wrong. I am not trying to pass off a kydex sheath as something it is not. Just trying to think outside the box. Although I don't work in leather I drop by this area on a daily basis. The work and information displayed here is awesome. I'm still trying to figure out how to make knives so it would be totally overwhelming to try to learn leatherwork. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.



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Old 04-13-2003, 10:58 PM
DC KNIVES DC KNIVES is offline
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Hi Fred, I like your knife and sheath combo. I don't have much experience with kydex (plastic ain't got no soul) but I 'll see if I can help. For your leather goods you might try the Leather Factory. They are in Tampa and fair on prices especially since you won't be ordering alot.
I would recommend some 2-3 ounce veg-tanned leather, small roll of waxed nylon thread, and a small packge of stitching needles. Drill your holes with a 1/16" drill bit. Since this is somewhat outside the box, I don't think the traditional saddle stitch will hold well so try a running stitch.Maybe some others might take a shot at this one.Good luck and show it to us afterwards.Dave
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Old 04-14-2003, 09:48 AM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Hey Fred-

Leather Factory/Tandy is usually the most convenient for most folks as Dave said.

For leather if you are using it for a liner I'd try vegtan pigskin or the thinnest vegtan cow you can find (probably the 2/3 oz). DON"T try using garment leather or such because it's chrome tanned and it isn't good against a blade.(it uses chromium salts for tanning and that causes problems). You can thin the leather even more if you want by sanding it on a belt. Just go slow!

Although for leather I prefer linen thread I think that Dave is spot on about using nylon with Kydex. But on the other hand I think the saddle stitch would still be your best bet. It's really just a double running stitch. Tools: a drill, a couple of harness needles, the nylon thread. and an overstitch wheel to mark and smooth your stitches.
How to do it: Here's my tutorial on stitching. (some adaptation will be required but the basics are there)
Leather Stitching

The leather will be in a natural color so you will want to dye it and finish it. Dye any of the Fiebings colors you wish. Just make sure you rub it good after dying and before finishing. Finishes: Leather Shene (?) or Fiebings Tan Kote will give you a good water resistant finish.

Just remember over time NO lining material will completely prevent scratches and other marks. Dust and grit will build up on/in the lining and Voila! Still I think a well sealed SMOOTH leather lining will be better than felt because you can take a can of air and blow it out (I DON"T recommend high pressure-that forces the grit into the leather) or you can even rinse it out with lukewarm water and let thoroughly dry (a hair dryer on LOW for just a few minutes will speed up the process. Just don't over do it and shrink the leather.

Finally try a solid leather sheath! You might like it. (they can be made as stiff as kydex using my "How to harden leather" method - search back through the Sheath Forum)


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The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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Old 04-14-2003, 08:52 PM
PrattBard PrattBard is offline
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Right Chuck!

But your always right on!

When I made my box cutter sheath I cased it in HOT water. When it dried it was HARD as a rock. VERY kydex like! I have a few Kydex sheaths, and the leather was almost the sames, very rigid, and hard. holds it shape even when the knife is out. When you "knock" on it, it even sounds like kydex. LOL

alas this was done by accident, only the hot water spigot was on at the time, and I didn't know the result. But I do like it alot!

Lara
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Old 04-15-2003, 08:02 AM
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floridafred floridafred is offline
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Dave and Chuck,
Thanks for the info. I've ordered what I'll need from Leather Factory. In fact a lot more than I'll need. Got some snakeskin to play with also. Who knows I may eventually drop the kydex altogether. I'll let you know how things work out.

Dave, that latest sheath and knife combo you posted is fantastic. Keep them coming.


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Old 04-15-2003, 07:25 PM
whv whv is offline
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just a thought here, fred. i've not tried this, but i know that kydex edges are sharp as he!! - i've even cut myself on them. before you stitch it up, i think i would put a countersink bit in the drill press and touch each hole a time or two on both sides of the sheath to relieve those edges. should help to keep you from cutting whatever thread you use.
.
in the end, i'm with the rest of these folks - use leather


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Old 04-15-2003, 07:49 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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I thought of the chamfer too but didn't know for sure how sharp it would be it would be if he glued the leather on first and then drilled.

As much as I like - LOVE - leather, kydex has it's place. Tactical situations that are on or around salt water (Go SEALS!) or any other scenarios that will keep the sheath continuously wet such as being in the jungle or in any type of rain forest for that matter demand a sheath that will make the grade and leather just doesn't last as well under those conditions. (That's the facts Jack - I've made several sheaths for Spec Ops guys over the years and none held up under those types of severe hot and/or humid conditions as described. And I tried everything!)

Hey stainless has a place too! The same place as kydex!


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The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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  #8  
Old 04-16-2003, 04:11 PM
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floridafred floridafred is offline
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Kydex sharp edges

Wayne, the leather (I think) will (should) protect the thread from getting cut by the Kydex. At any rate I'll find out for sure.

Don't worry though, no stainless going in this leather/kydex sheath. Strictly a 1084 man.


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Old 04-16-2003, 04:36 PM
whv whv is offline
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sorry, i had the wrong picture: leather (instead of felt) on the inside. makes sense now, so long as the stitches are not pulled too tight.


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