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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#16
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Sharp looking knife, Kirby!
In another thread someone asked how to make Ron Lake type interframes. One thing Lake does is make two pins that are in reality screws. He turns down and threads the pin stock to make screws. On assembly he screws them through the inlays and into the frames. I assume that he uses an epoxy, and the frame under the inlays is probably about as thick as a liner. You've done the same thing. Personally I like just those two pins showing rather than them, the lock bar pivot, and a couple at the butt. Yeah, looks good. David __________________ Broadwell Studios LLC Fine Art Knives & Writing Instruments http://www.david.broadwell.com |
#17
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Looks like it worked. Good looking knife.
Steve __________________ Stephen Vanderkolff Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/ Thanks |
#18
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Thanks Dave and Steve.
Wow I thought I would get some grief for using 3M sand paper for a background in the photo. I guess its not that obvious. |
#19
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Thanks Knife Scales Guy!
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#20
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Kirby, I hope that this will help in the future possibly. I have been working with Ivory for 30 years as ascrimsander. When I use Ivory on knives I use the Locktight 326 to put the scales on then put on some false pine if needed. I have been doing it this way for years. You will always have some checking on Ivory even if extreamly careful.
One thing that i do use is Paleo Bond on the whole surface of the Ivory prior to any sanding or cutting. The paleo bond will be absorbed into the Ivory as much as trying to have it stabilized. Elephant Ivory differs a lot from Mammoth Ivory as it is more dense, only due to the fact that it is not as aged. I have stabilized a lot of Mammoth Ivory, and I have fould that Elephant Ivory works better using Paleo Bond. Prior to using Paleo Bond I was using a water based sanding dealer that seemed to work better than anything else. This is just how I do mine. One other way if you feel that you have to use pins, then use them pre made. By this I mean drill and countersink a pin hole in a piece of bronze or brass to use as a pin anvil. To clamp the pin on the bottom of the anvil use a couple of pieces of micarta with a grove cut into one. You just need to clamp the pieces in a vise. This way yoou haveon half of the pin already peened with only a touchup that is needed if any. One thing is to be noted and that is to anneal the pin prior to peening it into the knife. To anneal the pin (silver or nickel silver): heat the pin til it becomes cherry then cool in a glass of water. This should make it soft enough to peen without causing any damage to the scales. I do the same when I am going to inlay in an engraving. I hope this is of some help. Curtis Wilson __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#21
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Very helpful Curtis thank you. Where are you getting you loctite 326?
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#22
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Kirby, Texas Knifemakers Supply carries it. It is Kind of pricey but a little goes a long way, Just remember to mask off the spring and back liners with clear packing tape to keep it from locking up the spring.
Take care, Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
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knife, knives |
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