first attempt "lock back folder"

[22H2]

I am attempting to make my first folder using O1 for blade material and the lock bar I was wondering do you heat treat the lock bar? if so would you heat treat it before you start ginding it.

[Don Robinson]

Originally Posted by 22H2

I am attempting to make my first folder using O1 for blade material and the lock bar I was wondering do you heat treat the lock bar? if so would you heat treat it before you start ginding it.

Yes, the lock bar must be heat treated to around 40 to 45 Rc using 0-1. I rough all the parts out before heat treating.

Good luck. We'll all help you here.

[22H2]

thanks Don, I have profiled the blade and I will do the same on the Lock before I heat treat.

[DaveL]

Actually the lock bar is not a spring but a lock so you can heat treat it to a higher level, many doing it with the blade

[Don Robinson]

Right, Dave. I didn't notice that he was making a lockback.

But, there are several methods of making a lockback, some with separate springs, some with the spring as an integral part of the bar. If his is both spring and lock bar, the spring end should be drawn back to spring temper.

[DaveL]

Yeah, agree if it is a spring, then temper as a spring. It seems that most locks are by a separate spring either one that serves under the lock, part of the frame structure also and those with a separate spring. Good luck on this little challenge...

[Don Robinson]

I've made all 3 kinds of lockbacks. Integral spring, where the end of the lockbar is split and separated like a Y, using a separate leaf spring inserted into the back separator, and using a coil spring set into a pocket in the back separator. I like Ron Lake's design using a back lever and a coil. Foolproof.

[22H2]

I have both the flat leaf spring and the coils, seems like the coil would be the easiest but I have'nt got that far yet. I assume if I use either the leaf or coil spring that it would be ok to heat treat the lock with the blade? Man it feels good to get advice from the Pro's

thanks

[Don Robinson]

Yep, using a separate spring allows the bar to be heat treated the same as the blade.

[22H2]

do you have to oil quench o1 or can you air quench?

[Don Robinson]

Originally Posted by 22H2

do you have to oil quench o1 or can you air quench?

Oil quench.

[22H2]

thanks Don
what type of oil would I use to quench? should it be heated or room temp?

[DaveL]

You can buy tempering oil fairly cheap to use and I expect there are all sorts of answers coming...

[Don Robinson]

I haven't used 0-1 for many years. Automatic transmission fluid will work. heat it up to around 150 degreesF before quenching the blade in it. After the red heat is gone in a few seconds, take it out and straighten the blade. It can be straightened until the steel reaches 400 degreesF. Stir the quenchant with the blade to keep air bubbles from forming on the blade.

[22H2]

thanks everyone