building a folder

Bear with me, I've quenched the blade and it's sitting in the deep freeze for 3 days before I temper it. I've milled out the frames and fitted the handle slabs, however there's a lot of pictures in this one (11 altogether) which I have to download, adjust, then upload and a fair bit of typing, so it's going to take me a while. I should be able to do it tomorrow (wednesday our time) but in the meantime just to keep you all interested I've taken some photos of a couple of grinders I use (don't look too close at the background please). The first 2 are different views of my vertical grinder with a 9" disc on the side, I use the disc for dovetailing the handle slabs (the table is set at 60 degrees) and the platen and it's assembly are removable. I remove the platen and slack belt polish the handle and I can remove the assembly and install my 3.5" contact wheel.


Figure vg1(a)

Figure vg1(b)

The next image is of a little air grinder that I bought from Harbour Freight Company and I use it to polish the release cutout amongst other things.


Figure ag1

Until next time, regards from Australia.

Just an excellent piece of work! This is sure a fine piece of teaching. I have only made liner locks in the past. This article is certainly one I would use if I try a lock back. Thanks much!

OK, I,ll now mill out the frames and fit the handle slabs.

All measurements from now on will be in millimetres (mm) with imperial values in brackets, mainly because the counters on my mill are in metric so I've become used to it. The first task is measure the thickness of the frame half which in this case is 3.80 mm (.150").
Figure 32 shows my mill plate on which I can mill both frame halves simultaneously, all the small holes are the spacer pins of different styles of folders. Figure 33 shows the frame halves attached and clamped down, note the locating pins, the red lines are approx. where I want the bolsters to finish. Figure 34 is the plate on the table of my mill, the 2 bolts in the foreground are used to register the plate so that the front and back bolsters are always at right angles to the axis of the mill. I used these 2 T bolts when I initially set up the plate.


Figure 32


Figure 33


Figure 34

I mill out the frames with a 5/8" 60 degree dovetail cutter running at 350 rpm. With the frames and plate clamped down on the mill I zero the downfeed counter and set the tables stops to where my bolsters lines are. I like to leave a thickness of approx. 1.3-1.5mm (.050"-.060") for the liner. Then taking cuts of .25mm (.010") and using plenty of cutting oil I proceed to mill out the frame halves. With the guts of the frame mill out I run up to one of the stops and set the mill table counter to zero and then loosen the stop and then taking .25mm (.010") cuts I mill the dovetail and when one end is completed I reset the stop and wind back and cut the other dovetail of the frame. Remove the frame halves from the plate and de-burr the edges. Figure 35 shows the finished result.


Figure 35

The next step is to put in this release cutout, I reassemble the knife (minus the blade) and mark where I want the cutout to be and roughly draw the shape making sure that the bottom of my mark is higher than the bottom of the lockbar. I dis-assemble and pin the 2 halves together and using a half-round file I file in the cutout. I clean up the file marks with my little air-grinder (to 800 grit). Figure 36 shows the marks and Figure 37 shows the result.


Figure 36


Figure 37

The next step is to fit the handle slabs and in this project I've selected to use some really nice Arizona Desert Ironwood burl which I purchased for a very reasonable price from a guy in the Arizona called Don O'Gara at www.ironwoodbydon.com. Figure 38 shows the material but unfortunately the image doesn't do it justice.


Figure 38

Using a pair of vernier calipers I measure the distance from the bottom of the front bolster dovetail to the bottom of the rear bolster dovetail, in this case about 60mm (2.3"). This is a starting point only. I sand each handle flat and with a square I mark a line at right angles to the top and using my disc grinder I grind the 60 degree dovetail. Measuring off 60mm plus a bit I mark another line at right angles to the top and grind the other dovetail and check the result against the frame (this gives me an idea of how much more I have to grind off), I mark another line back a bit and carefully grind down to it constantly checking it against the frame until the slab is a push fit in the frame (the last little bit I sometimes sand off with 120 grit wet and dry on a flat plate). With one side fitting I repeat the process for the other frame, the second one is easier as I can use the first slab as a guide. When the slabs are fitting I mark the frame edges on the inside of the slab. Figure 39 shows the inside of the finished marked out slab. Figure 40 shows the handle slab in position.


Figure 39


Figure 40

Next I glue the slabs on the frame. I use loctite 324 speedbonder and activator, a 2 part adhesive that goes off in about 5 minutes. I put the activator on the frame and the adhesive on the handle slab (if you follow the instructions you have plenty of time) and I slide the handle slab up to my marks and clamp the whole thing to a flat aluminium plate over which I've placed a piece of grease proof oven paper (my wife uses it when baking cakes). I remove the frame after 5 minutes or so and wipe off the excess and, on the bandsaw, trim off the excess slab. I repeat the process for the other half. With both handle slabs glued and trimed on their respective halves I pin both together and grind the slabs down to the frame (finishing with 240 grit) and grind and polish (to 800 grit) the release cut-out. Figure 41 shows the frame clamped up on the aluminium plate. Figures 42 and 43 shows the slabs finished to the frame.


Figure 41


Figure 42


Figure 43

Well this has taken me a couple of hours and I hope you all can follow what I've done. In the next installment I will shape and polish the frame halves.

Regards from Australia

Neil,
This is great stuff man! I can't believe how much trouble you've gone to in order to share this with us. I just felt like I had to say "thanks", and let you know we're real proud to have you here at the forums.

Yeah ... Neil Charity Rules!

Mike Carrol's the one who first told me about Neil. I was bragging about some American folder makers to him when he stopped me and said, "Mate, we've got a man down here named Neil Charity that's one of the finest folder makers in the world!" Then he said, "I've bought and sold the same Neil Charity folder twice and made money on it both times ..." I said, "Mike, if it was so good, why sell it?" He said, "Mate, I'm holding it in my hand! This time, I'm going to keep it, no matter what they offer me!"

True Story!

Alex

Best instruction I have seen here on the net. Event hough I don?t plan on making lockbacks I learn alot from this. I have the 2 foldingknifebooks (how to) and I have learned alot of shoptrick from those. But this instruction is much better!

OK here's the next phase.
Before I start to shape the frame I need to drill the bar pivot pin hole in the slabs, in this folder I use a blind pin so I drill into the slab around 1.5mm (.060") and repeat for other side. Next I cut a pin to suit and try it between the 2 frames.

The shaping stage is all done by eye, this is where your skill as a knifemaker comes in. First off I mark the centreline of the bolsters at the front and rear of the handle and then using brass pins I put the 2 halves together. Then starting at the front on the handle, on my 10" contact wheel, I grind a taper from the marked centre line to the rear of the front bolster. I use a fresh 60 grit belt for this, to cut down on heat, go carefully and as I get near the rear of the front bolster I turn the handle around so as to grind away from the bolster and into the timber slabs (this minimizes the risk on undercutting the bolsters). Once the front bolster is tapered I extend the taper up to the front of the release cut-out, I then repeat the process for the other half. Once I'm happy that the tapers are even on both sides of the handle I grind a taper in the rear bolster using exactly the same proceedure. As I'm doing this I continually refine the front and rear tapers to finally give me a swell in the handle somewhere about the front of the release cut-out. I am also continually dipping the bolsters in my water bucket to keep them cool and when I'm grinding the ironwood itself I keep the handle moving to stop burning the timber. Once I'm happy with the effect I want I go over both sides with a 240 belt, to remove most of the 60 grit marks. Remember to keep the handle moving. Figure 44 shows what I finish up with, compare this with Figure 43 and it gives you an idea of how much material I've removed.


Figure 44

I then go back to the 60 grit belt and carefully round the bolsters and take the sharp edges off the slabs, once I'm happy with the general effect I go over it with a 240 grit belt. Figures 45 shows the rough shaping at this stage, if you look close you can see some of the 60 grit scratches, I'll clean them up during the next stage.


Figure 45

All the rest of the shaping is done by the slack belt method and I now remove the platen from my grinder and I start off with an A65 3M trisac (approx.240 grit). I use these belts because they outlast anything I've ever used.
The following image shows the grinder set up (yes that's the dog's bowl in the background).


Figure vg1(c)

I start to grind/polish at the front bolster removing the scratches and refining the shape as I go, then as the scratches disappear I move onto the timber, carefully because this timber is easy to burn. I then do the other front bolster and move on to do both rear bolsters. Once I've got all the deep 60 grit scratches out (I check this using my opti-viza) I repeat the process with an A30 trisac belt (approx. 600 grit).
I now stop and apply a gunstock sealer (which dries in about 5 minutes). When this is dry I put on an A16 trisac belt and remove all the A30 scratches. Note as the grit sizes get smaller the easier it is to burn the timber so KEEP THAT HANDLE MOVING.
Figures 46 and 47 shows the end result, man this is a really nice piece of desert ironwood.


Figure 46


Figure 47

I now apply a product called "Fine Buffing Oil" which I believe is very similar to Tung Oil and leave it for 10 minutes then wipe off the excess and buff it with a soft cloth, I put it aside for a hour to dry. When it is dry I separate the 2 halves and clean up the inside of the frame of sealer and buffing oil.
Next step is to polish the bottom of the bar (to 1200 grit) and also the blade (to 1200 grit), bring the bearing down to the correct size (.002"-.003" bigger than the blade) and then assemble the whole knife. I do not do the final fit up yet as I like to "work the mechanism in" to remove any initial "wear", I apply a couple of drops of "sperm whale oil" that I have and sit down for a couple of hours and operate the knife.
Figure 48 shows the assembled knife and it looks really cool and it walks and talks like a dream (it "pops" when I depress the lockbar).


Figure 48

Hopefully tomorrow I will do the final fitup, etch the blade, jewel the inside of the frame and assemble the whole knife. We are on the home straight and the finish line is in sight so until then, regards from Australia.

This is some really amazing stuff!!!! How long ago did you purchase your surface grinder Neil?
That desert Iron wood is really fantastic looking! I hate working with it but just from my few experiences I have to say that I'm amazed you were able to polish it without burning it completely.
I can't wait to see the finished knife.
Reuben

Hi Reuben,

From memory about 5 or 6 years ago, I tend to lose track of time, and I paid AUS$800 (that's about US$460 at todays rates) for the second hand machine.

The "secret" to working with timbers like desert ironwood is to use fresh belts, not to run them to fast, light grinding pressure and to keep moving.

Well the knife is all finished, other than the engraving, but it's going to take me a while to get the images organised, uploaded and written up, so I'll keep all you guys on tenderhooks until tomorrow.

Regards from Australia.

After working the knife for a couple of hours I dis-assemble the folder and I now do the final fitup, first checking that the bar is flush with the top of the frame in the open position, if it has dropped in a tad I grind it flush and finish with 1200 grit. I now remove metal from point 1 (see earlier installment) with a A16 trisac belt and carefully adjust the bar in the closed position to sit flush with the frame. I usually have too remove the baled from the frame quite a few times until I'm happy. If the tip of the blade starts to move out of the frame remove a bit from the kick (point 2).

With the final adjustment done I remove the blade and polish off any scratches, gegrease with acetone and paint the tang, lock notch, inside the pivot hole and surrounds with nail polish. Figure 49 shows what I mean.


Figure 49

Next step is the jewel the frame and bar. Assemble the spacer, spring and bar on one half and scribe their inside outline on the frame, repeat for the other half. Usually I only jewel up to this line but in this case I've done all the inside of the frame except the circle that the tang rides on. I use a little tool I bought from Koval Knife Supply some years ago, it uses cratex points and it's excellent. The tool fits in the drill press and I lay the frame on a block of wood which has a pice of leather glued to it to prevent scratching. Figure 50 shows the frame halves and bar jewelled together with the tool.


Figure 50

I now etch the blade and in this case I'm using battery acid (weak sulphuric acid - 30%). It gives me a bright etch and takes about 40 minutes to get the desired result. Figure 53 shows the etched blade (I apologize for the quality of this image, the light today is a bit bright but you get the idea). I've also put my logo on and I usually sharpen the blade at this stage.


Figure 53

Right the folder is now ready for final assembly which I do in 2 stages. Stage 1: I assemble the spacer, spring, bar and blade pivot pin with its bearing on one half and then the second half. I now peen the two spacer pins (don't be afraid to really hit these) making sure that the pins really swell out into the holes, I grind then down a bit and go over them with the ball end of my hammer. Stage 2: I remove the pivot pin (and bearing), put the bearing in the blade and insert the blade into the frame and insert the pin. Clamping the top of the frame with a pair of needle nose vice grips I peen the blade pivot pin, first one side and then the other. I grind a bit off the swelled pin and go over with the ball end to make sure the pin has swelled out properly. Don't be afraid of hitting it too hard, I really belt mine ptetty hard. Figure 52 shows all the parts ready for assembly, Figure 51 shows my "peening post" which is a stamping punch from a metal fabricator (yes that's the overseer in the background) and Figure 54 is my hammer, it's a small ball peen.


Figure 52


Figure 51 and the "Boss"


Figure 54

Figure 55 shows the knife clamped in the vice grip pliers, the piece of pigskin prevents scratches.


Figure 55

I remove the clamp and add a few drops of machine oil to the mechanism and depress the lock-bar. GREAT!!! everything works fine and even if it was a bit tight by opening and closing the blade a few time things WILL free up, believe me. Figure 56 shows the folder in the closed position with the peened pins visible.


Figure 56

I now open the knife and grind almost all the pins down to the frame on the 10"contact wheel using a 240 grit belt. I then slack belt grind/polish start with the A65 grit trisac belt and finish with a worn A16 belt. Finally I wash the whole knife out with automotive prep-wash and blow dry with compress air, add a couple of drops of whale oil AND THAT'sIT BABY another one finished. Figure 57 shows the finished piece, serial number 010101.


Figure 57 The finished knife.

Tonight I will be seeing my mate who's the engraver and we'll discuss what would go well on this knife. I'm going to call it "THE FORUM".
I hope you all have enjoyed this project as much as I have and don't forget that if you have any questions or comments feel free.
In the meantime, regards from the Lucky Country.

Beautifully done, Neil, and a fine bit of education. Many thanks. Looking forward to seeing you in Atlanta.

Thanks a million Neil,
I have realy enjoyed this and have printed it all of for a step by step guide. If I ever successfully complete a folder it will be because you have so graciously shared this information with us. When I get around to trying my hand at it I am sure that I will be sending you lots of emails.
Thanks again.
Mike Conner

Wow. Absolutely incredible, Neil!! I love the way that looks!!

Neil,

See if your engraver friend can take a few pic's along the way as well. I don't make knives but this is a great tutorial and really lets you understand the knifemaking proccess. - Thanks