MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum

The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 05-31-2006, 12:36 PM
Don Robinson's Avatar
Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brownsville, Texas
Posts: 4,873
TJ, you and I should take a couple of days together telling each other tales of old days gone by.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-05-2006, 08:17 AM
Don Robinson's Avatar
Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brownsville, Texas
Posts: 4,873
My Mom got me a can of spray and it works fine, just as you said.

The flourescent light still snaps at me though.

Thanks to all of you for the help.

I may even get used to the ceramic liners.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-24-2006, 09:32 AM
Raymond Johnson Raymond Johnson is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: I live in Melbourne Florida.
Posts: 158
I had some questions. but they were answered by the end of the thread. So thank you for the info and the laughs. 10 mb ha ha ha ha o it hurt it hurt to laugh. But thanks again
Raymond Johnson
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-26-2006, 12:48 PM
esa esa is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 39
hello Don,if you can bond the frame of the light that should disipate the charge,i know this is alittle late posting,is your building metal,if so that would be a good ground,if the wiring system is right (Grounding conductor) you could pull off of that,i have dont alot of grounding in finshing company where they spray stain sealer ETC.. i would ground the drums with a ground clamp to discharge for static,also check your light and see if there is a ground wire in it,if so make sure no corrision and bonded properly.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-26-2006, 01:20 PM
Don Robinson's Avatar
Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brownsville, Texas
Posts: 4,873
My shop is wooden construction with concrete floors.

I'll put a rubber gasket under the light base. Thanks. I hadn't thought of that.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 06-27-2006, 10:24 PM
SamLS SamLS is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 149
If you have a metal idler contacting the belt you should be able to dissipate the charge. From your electric motor base plate or chasis. Run a jumper to the metal base of the grinder which has a conductive path to that metal idler assuming your chasis ground on the motor is hooked up. Which should also be checked. You should have a ground rod at the service to your shop which is bonded to the ground wire( bare or green depending ).
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 06-28-2006, 07:11 AM
Don Robinson's Avatar
Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brownsville, Texas
Posts: 4,873
Sam, the idler shaft is directly connected to the frame/chassis, but it has a rubber tire. The motor is mounted on the same frame/chassis and directly drives a bare aluminum drive wheel. All other wheels are rubber tired.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
blade


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:45 AM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved