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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#16
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TJ, you and I should take a couple of days together telling each other tales of old days gone by.
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#17
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My Mom got me a can of spray and it works fine, just as you said.
The flourescent light still snaps at me though. Thanks to all of you for the help. I may even get used to the ceramic liners. |
#18
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I had some questions. but they were answered by the end of the thread. So thank you for the info and the laughs. 10 mb ha ha ha ha o it hurt it hurt to laugh. But thanks again
Raymond Johnson |
#19
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hello Don,if you can bond the frame of the light that should disipate the charge,i know this is alittle late posting,is your building metal,if so that would be a good ground,if the wiring system is right (Grounding conductor) you could pull off of that,i have dont alot of grounding in finshing company where they spray stain sealer ETC.. i would ground the drums with a ground clamp to discharge for static,also check your light and see if there is a ground wire in it,if so make sure no corrision and bonded properly.
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#20
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My shop is wooden construction with concrete floors.
I'll put a rubber gasket under the light base. Thanks. I hadn't thought of that. |
#21
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If you have a metal idler contacting the belt you should be able to dissipate the charge. From your electric motor base plate or chasis. Run a jumper to the metal base of the grinder which has a conductive path to that metal idler assuming your chasis ground on the motor is hooked up. Which should also be checked. You should have a ground rod at the service to your shop which is bonded to the ground wire( bare or green depending ).
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#22
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Sam, the idler shaft is directly connected to the frame/chassis, but it has a rubber tire. The motor is mounted on the same frame/chassis and directly drives a bare aluminum drive wheel. All other wheels are rubber tired.
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