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The Display Case A place to post your latest knives and creations. Let the Knife Network community see your work first! |
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#1
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New ones!!
MarkCid84's necker: y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/t...t&.hires=t y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/t...t&.hires=t D2 with buffalo Horn: y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/t...t&.hires=t Ronin!!! O-1 steel, designed by a friend: y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/t...t&.hires=t |
#2
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I like the D2 with buffalo horn. Work on your bevels...a clean, deep bevel will really perk up your knives and improve the value and perceived quality You are coming along nicely. What are you griding on? |
#3
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Im using a grizzly 2x72 Hehehe. Grinds arent too bad! This one is one I ground over Christmas time, so its one of my earleir grinds with this sander. I would have used the sanding block on the bevels to bring a contrast, but when I ground it, I blended them a while ago, and when I wanted to do it, the steel was hardened and you know how tough D2 is to sand when its at 60 rockwells! The warncliff was also an early knife of mine, and it, like the buffalo horn knife, was first hollow ground, then flattened on the platen and the grinds blended to look like a full flat grind, but still have the spine thick for strength. Most of mine now are a full flat grind, so I don't have to worry about the bevels being flat. I wish i could hollow grind nice on the grizz, but the dang motor housing gets in the way. I'm playing with modifying the grizz to use a pulley setup for variable speeds and mounting the contact wheel with pillow block assembly so I can grind on the wheel easier. |
#4
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Dig pics of my latest 3 blades |
#5
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If you are flat grinding, Allen Blade has an excellent video on flat grinding. I think he sells it for $13. |
#6
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I know, I have discussed grinding with allen a lot, I can get a nice grind, its just when I hand sand, i wasn't using a sanding block before when I did this one, so the bevels got washed out. With the scan, u can see the double edge one, with the grind lines. |
#7
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Taz- Definitely improving It's hard to hear something like what Bob is saying and not feel offended...but he's only trying to help you along. Like he said, really sharp bevels and plunge lines are a must to really get recognized. That's where I was talking about not taking a blade to final finish prior to heat-treat...you'll have a great deal more control over sharp bevels if you do the final truing up after heat-treat. Now once you get it really figured out....a guy doesn't need to worry about that...but it helps at the start. A buyer will want the junction grind lines on a double ground blade to look like they can cut with them. Keep on grinding...practice makes improvements Nick |
#8
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I took no offense! I try to get all the help I can! I usually do full flat ground stuff, so there aren't usually bevel to work with, but when I do them, i usually just blend them in cuz I didn't know any better, but now I do! hollow grinding is a PITA on the Grizz because of the motor housing, so most of my blades end up a full flat grind with a taper. I try to finish before HT jsut because its easier to do because the steel is softer |
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blade, knife, knives |
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mperez76er, Seemus7 |
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