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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 05-09-2010, 06:05 PM
David Brierley's Avatar
David Brierley David Brierley is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Maple Ridge, British Columbia
Posts: 7
Power hammer questions

Hi I built a base and was cleaning up and re-greasing my recently purchased LG 50 lb power hammer (transition style) and had a few questions:

http://cid-670ecb2ab76354a6.skydrive...r/DSCF3298.JPG

http://cid-670ecb2ab76354a6.skydrive...r/DSCF3310.JPG

-Is the Treadle Pin supposed to move or is the tread spring simply attached to it.

http://cid-670ecb2ab76354a6.skydrive...r/DSCF3317.JPG

http://cid-670ecb2ab76354a6.skydrive...r/DSCF3319.JPG

-That being said, does the clutch fork push the clutch collar forward to engage the hammer?

http://cid-670ecb2ab76354a6.skydrive...r/DSCF3309.JPG

-I have an antique 3 HP motor that came with it and I assume I'll be putting a plug on the end to accommodate my 220 outlet.

http://cid-670ecb2ab76354a6.skydrive...r/DSCF3300.JPG

-One of the grease fittings is cracked, I am guessing I can replace it with any newer style?

http://cid-670ecb2ab76354a6.skydrive...r/DSCF3311.JPG

-How do I replace the belts, I hope I don't have to take the shaft apart to get the belts around the wheel?

Thanks
Dave

Last edited by David Brierley; 05-09-2010 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 05-09-2010, 07:07 PM
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Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
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Quote:
-Is the Treadle Pin supposed to move or is the tread spring simply attached to it.
It SHOULD just be an attaching point for the spring

Quote:
does the clutch fork push the clutch collar forward to engage the hammer?
Actually, the flywheel is the portion that will be pushed forward into the clutch (I think I see wooden clutch blocks in the pic?) The clutch, whether it be wooden blocks, or the cone style with friction belt material on it is a part of the main shaft. Make sure you keep the clutch contact surfaces oiled.

Quote:
-I have an antique 3 HP motor that came with it and I assume I'll be putting a plug on the end to accommodate my 220 outlet.
That's a question that can only be answered by looking at the info plate on the motor (if it has one), and if it doesn't, I would encourage you to take it to a motor shop and have it check out....or maybe call the person you purchased the hammer from and ask the motor's specific voltage....if you wire it wrong, your gona be out looking for a new motor.

Quote:
-One of the grease fittings is cracked, I am guessing I can replace it with any newer style?
Yes, you should be able to get another grease "zerk" at an automotive parts store such as NAPA or Princess Auto. I would take what you can of the broken one to give them an idea of the size you need.

Quote:
-How do I replace the belts, I hope I don't have to take the shaft apart to get the belts around the wheel?
You guessed it! Yes, in order to change belts on that style of hammer, you literally have to take off the main bearing caps, lift the shaft and put the new belts on. (that is a line shaft model hammer, designed to run off a line shaft that ran along the ceiling of old style shops...the shaft ran many machines, but the shaft itself was powered by a single motor, usually an old "one lunger" located outside the shop.)

Both my 25 and 50lb Little Giants where ling shaft models, and after changing the belts the first time, I purchase TWO sets, and put both sets on the shaft....one set was used to power the hammer(s), and the other was wired out of the way for future use..that way I didn't have to pull the main shaft again.

One thing I noticed in the pics....concerning the base. I suspect that your going to have to get some large angle iron and bolt the base to the floor. Both my 25 and 50 would "walk", base and all until they unplugged themselves. Once I was going to town on my 25 and all of a sudden it quit....when I looked up, both the hammer and I were in the middle of the shop floor....it had walked enough to pull the plug, and I was so intent on what I was doing that I never even realized it was "walking". The next morning both bases got bolted to the concrete floor.


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Old 05-10-2010, 06:42 AM
Bob Hartman Bob Hartman is offline
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Location: Boise, ID
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Gates makes what is called Easy-Splice V-Belting that is spliced with a mechanical fastener that is made for this situation. I've never used them, but they might be worth looking into.
Bob
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Old 06-19-2010, 05:38 PM
Miles Undercut Miles Undercut is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 9
If I were you I would IMMEDIATELY get the right bottom block/anvil for that hammer, and NOT use it until I did. The way it is wedged now, I would be afraid that, some cold morning, the hammer will split the front lip right off that sow block, which would be virtually unrepairable. Sid Suedemeier (see the article in the current or maybe the just-previous, issue of Blade Magazine for info on him. He bought the little Giant inventory, is helpful with restoration. Nice hammer! I have a similar one, an LG clone made by Mayer Bros. after they lost control of the company. Mine is on a similar raft of RR ties and rocks like crazy. Contact info for Suedemeier as per Blade: Dept. BL8, 762 N. 60th St. Nebraska City, NE 68410, phone 402-873-4372 Email Lgiant@windstream.net
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:44 AM
ron58 ron58 is offline
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what you mite want to check into is Fenner Drives Power Twist Plus belts,they are link belts and when it gets lose you just take a link out and your back up and running,plus you don't have to take your hammer apart to put them on or take a link out.look on ebay,or granges is carrying them!
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