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  #31  
Old 03-20-2011, 07:23 PM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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Chris, If you can get your hands on you typical hardware store propane torch, you can heat treat 1095.

I would encourage you to give it a try for this KITH--That's why we do these--so everyone can try a little something different--expand your horizons.

I'd be happy to walk you through the procedure if your willing via PM. It would be a very gratifying step in your knifemaking journey!


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  #32  
Old 03-20-2011, 09:00 PM
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gigante gigante is offline
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I may give that a try. I can get a propane torch, and I have a toaster oven for not putting food into. Anything else I would need?

Also, ARC, I just got the chance to watch your video, and if I don't end up doing my heat treat, i'll let you know. Thanks for the offer.
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  #33  
Old 03-22-2011, 03:20 PM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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A maker can use a set of vice grips, a propane torch, a hanging magnet, a disposable foil type loaf pan (from any grocery store), olive oil, and any stove to heat treat 1095.

Forgive me if this is elementary, but I'm not versed on everyones experience levels here.

-It's best to get two of the foil loaf pans (they are ussually sold in pairs anyway for a couple of bucks).

-Fill them with the olive oil.

-Heat a scrap clean chunk of steel until it is glowing and use it to warm of the oil.

-Holding your blade (finished with 120 grit to 80% of final thinness) with the vice grips clamped at the tip of the tang and angled so you can dunk it easily, start heating your blade with the torch.

*1095 is not the best candidate for a stop block 'roll the edge' type quench as seen in videos and books using steels like 1084, 52100, or 5160. A better approach for this steel is to dunk the entire edge at once--no rocking or rolling. So, be sure that if you decide to use a stop block, you have it at a depth that allows the entire edge to go below the surface of the oil from behind the tip to behind the choil. I don't use a stop block myself, but they provide for very crisp hamon lines if you etch your finished blade.

-Get your steel up to critical temp (check this with the hanging magnet) As soon as it goes non-magnetic, you're there. Don't let it cool even for a second! Get to critical and quench in warmed oil. Don't move if for several seconds, just let it sizzle. Then goes side to side just a bit to move the oil around.

-After a few minutes, pull it out, wipe it off, use a wire brush if needed, and maybe a scrap of 120 grit to clean it up a bit. Visually check for warping or cracking.

-Vice it up by the tang in a bench vice and use a fine file to just glide it along the hardened edge with no real pressure. The file should 'skitter' across without wanting to bite at every point along the edge, from any angle. If so, congrats! You just hardened steel!

-Temper in a PREHEATED oven. I like 450* for one hour on small utilities. 475* for one hour, then cool, then repeat for larger or very thin blades. You will end up in the 58RC range. That's a good working edge hardness.


I have a Paragon KM24 digital HT furnace and a Rockwell hardness testerthat I use for stainless and high allow stuff, but this is STILL basically how I HT 1095. It just works.

This is an example of such a HT procedure (etched in Radio Shack variety FC).


There are plenty of other methods..., this is one.


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Last edited by Andrew Garrett; 03-22-2011 at 03:24 PM.
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  #34  
Old 03-22-2011, 05:42 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Ok, Andy, sign me up. I have the knife for the other KITH I'm in finished and I just started another knife that should make a fine neck knife. I even have an idea for a sheath.

Doug Lester


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  #35  
Old 03-24-2011, 09:47 AM
Borgesj Borgesj is offline
 
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Hey guys, i've never participated in an event like this...please sign me up.

Josh Borges
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  #36  
Old 03-24-2011, 09:54 AM
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racinca racinca is offline
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Welcome Josh, both to the forum and to the KITH. Are you new to knifemaking or just new to this forum?
Tony


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  #37  
Old 03-24-2011, 10:01 AM
Borgesj Borgesj is offline
 
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Just a hobby I picked up a few years ago, so by no means an expert.

Relatively new to this forum.
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  #38  
Old 03-24-2011, 03:57 PM
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cbr900son cbr900son is offline
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LOl ordered all my supplies from jantz. Pins, handle material, some more epoxy, even picked up a file guide and forgot the metal i was gonna use lol! So ordering more today i guess lol.
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  #39  
Old 03-24-2011, 08:32 PM
MikeSonnheim MikeSonnheim is offline
 
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Im thinking of doing G10 handles with blue liners.
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  #40  
Old 03-25-2011, 12:41 PM
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ARCustomKnives ARCustomKnives is offline
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Ordered some handle material and pin stock from USAKnifemaker.com a couple days ago.
Once that comes in, I'll have all I need to finish.
Still wanna make a few more blades before I heat treat the one I'm making for this though.


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  #41  
Old 03-25-2011, 07:29 PM
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racinca racinca is offline
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It's good to see people are getting their materials. Anyone else gotten started yet? I'll be starting mine after the Shenendoah Valley Knife Collectors show next weekend. All materials already in hand.
Tony


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  #42  
Old 03-25-2011, 09:22 PM
MikeSonnheim MikeSonnheim is offline
 
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I Just got more supplies in from USAknifemaker.com, can't wait to start grinding.
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  #43  
Old 03-25-2011, 10:34 PM
terence terence is offline
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still thinking of a design, want to try something a little more challenging, something i havent done yet
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  #44  
Old 03-25-2011, 11:22 PM
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J.Lec J.Lec is offline
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Have a design drawn up have supplies in hand I'll get grinding on this one soon.
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  #45  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:26 AM
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cbr900son cbr900son is offline
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Part of me wants to share my design and another part of me wants to wait and post a long wip thread heh.
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