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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 07-08-2016, 01:33 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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??? titanium ???

So anyone reading my past couple posts probilly knows i am on a little bit of a mission on exlporing different astetic options for my blades....sand blast etching i think i will try some dura coat...... anyway some i want to play with a little is titanium maybe a bolster or something like that i have never done any work with titanium for all of you that have is there any types of titanium to either look for or stay away from if i want to do some colors and use it as a bolster?? second does any one have any sources for it i looked on some of the regular sites but couldnt find the right sizes. most of my handle stuff is 3/16 so having it in the same size would make it easy for a bolster....any other hints and tips would be appreciated thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2016, 01:46 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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http://alphaknifesupply.com/ carries titanium. You could use either 6AL4V or CP titanium. There is some available in 3/16" but mostly you'll find it in sheet metal thicknesses. Pretty much all the titanium you can buy at any knife supplier will be salvaged metal as it is too expensive to buy it any other way.

To drill or saw titanium you must use very sharp tools. Don't try shaping it with a dull belt. All metals get hot when you do that, the difference with ti is that it doesn't readily release its heat into the air - it likes to wait until you touch it. I know, you think I'm kidding but I'm not. Also, ti dust can burn like magnesium so again, don't let it get too hot.

Coloring it is fairly easy but the color is only microns thick and very easily scratched. So, if the knife in question isn't going to spend its life in a glass case you'll be wasting your time and money coloring ti. The only legitimate reason to use ti is A) you need something that is 30% lighter than steel or B) you need something non-magnetic or C) you need something that is very tough and won't rust. None of these reasons is likely to apply to bolsters ....


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Old 07-08-2016, 05:08 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok very good point i did not realise the coloroing was so close to the surface i will have to re think that idea. as i said kinda on a mission of trying new stuff this batch i am doing should be done soon i already know 2 are deffinitly sold one needs a sheath the other needs handle and sheath they are for my cousin and his friend i wont be seeing him for another 2 weeks so i got time i want to wait till they are all done then just do all the sheaths at once..but i have also been trying new things on this batch to...playing with the grind lines angleing them i actually realy like the look of a full flat grind but having the line on a angle rather than straight vertical looks great and makes doing a satin finish alot easier....havent tried the dura coat yet i will tho cant make up my mind on duracoat or i seen alota people using cera coat..have you used any of them any thoughts on one company to another? i dont think it will be done too often but when its a tactical style knife i think it plays dual roles serves a purpose and it looks bad a** if done right on the RIGHT knife
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:37 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I used Moly-Kote. I would imagine they are all very similar products although I haven't looked at them. The Moly-Kote was about $25/can and had to be baked on at 300 - 350F. If the others are about the same then I'd say use whichever one is handy......


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Old 07-09-2016, 07:13 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok that sounds similar to the cera coat the dura coat doesnt need to be baked they do have some that does but the main product doesnt havent looked into moly kote that much the "texture of it came out ok/
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:39 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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You could also try calling around to machine shops in your area and ask if they have titanium in small pieces you could buy. My last job had small pieces of it as they didn't scrap it out unless it was a real small piece. I do not know where you live, but if you're in the Asheville area you can try Precision Products of Asheville. They used to have a small shelf of titanium pieces. Also try aluminum bronze as it has an unusual color and is tough too, especially the al-bronze with titanium in it, ask for some of that as well.

You will find titanium very hard to cut, you will need a new blade and cutting oil or wax is an absolute must, a water based moly cutting fluid is what we used, spraying to keep the part and blade cool. If you are not set up like that or find you don't want to wear out a bandsaw blade you can use an abrasive cut-off wheel, wear safety glasses and a face shield too. I've had a cut-off wheel blow apart on me and I didn't appreciate the experience. Do not buy cheap cut-off wheels unless you have a face shield. Using cut off wheels I use a full face respirator as I don't want to breathe that stuff either.
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Old 07-12-2016, 11:14 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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jimmontg- thanks for that tip i didnt even thinking about asking locally as there really isnt much that is local to me that would have it but there is one guy worth a try yeh if i do it ill probilly use a wheel i dont have a ton of bandsaw blades that i want to dull.

Ray question about the moly kote you used i ended up ordering a small bottle of the cera coat stuff... so i have a couple "techniques" to doing this but they are not the best of ideas so i want to see what you came up with so the issue is once you spray the blade obviously cant grind it or the paint will come off so even if you get the handle to shape before spraying once you spray and glue the handle you have to grind the glue off the only 2 solutions that seem to make sense is to grindle the handle matterial to shape spray the knife then attach the handle and just sit there and keep wiping the glue off as it dries but i always have a little glue dripping out the bottom of the handle when i come back in the morning so i dont think i want to sit there all night and wipe glue off other option is to make removable handle scalee and dont glue them. any thoughts ?? or maybe you did a hidden tang? that would solve some of thoses problems
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:06 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I always do hidden tangs of some sort, never scales unless on a very large survival type knife and then only sometimes. All that aside, the process is no different than any other blade finish: finish the blade completely, then add the handle. Pretty much have to do it that way if the finish is paint that needs to be baked (can't bake a glued handle). Wipe off the excess glue at the front of the scales and don't worry about the rest until after it sets. Blue tape will catch some of the excess at the front if any oozes out later, and acetone or a brass chisel will get the rest after it sets. You've seen my video, that's how I do handles ....


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Old 07-12-2016, 12:27 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok yeh i have only done 1 hidden tang and it actually would of came out great if it wasnt for me second guessing my self when shaping the handle i "took of just a lil more..just a lil more...untill a little more was to much" and the but end of the handle just looked to small... what i usually do with the scales is i finish the front of them completely then ill grind off all the excess leaving the scales about 1/8th bigger than the tang all the way around (dont ask why i leave them bigger ....just do) then i glue and clamp it lightly in the vise and but a few spring clips (the ones that are like heavy duty close pins) i always clamp the knife in the vise tip up since that way the front of the scales (the finished part) are up so i can wipe off the excess glue on the top and not have to wory about gravity making more come up. then let it sit now even if i wipe the handle all the way around there is always a little drip on the butt of the handle....then i just go grind the excess glue and handle material down to the tang...so if i did it that way and painted first i would grind off the paint on the tang between the scales but if like you said get the handle material to fit the knife before gluing then paint / bake then glue the scales wipe off excess and then the little bit of excess thats left when you come back the next day pop it off with brass chisle? that brass chisel wont scratch the the paint in the area of exposed tang between the 2 scales??
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Old 07-12-2016, 01:43 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I never said make the scales fit before they are glued. All my handles, including the ones with scales, are always oversized and rough when they are glued on. I would do it as you are doing it: tip up, finish the front of the scales, let the glue run where it may. After it sets, grind the handle to shape and finish it. Who cares if you grind the paint off the tang? You have an exposed tang! The paint will wear off very quickly as the knife is used - IT IS PAINT. So, after the handle is finished, tape off the scales, and take a little paint brush and repaint the tang. Don't worry about baking that part as it won't make all that much difference anyway .

And next time make your knife with a stub tang and avoid ALL of that drama ....


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  #11  
Old 07-12-2016, 02:33 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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sorry i re read your last post idk why i thought you ment to finish the handle first. but yeh your right about doing a hidden tang that would solve all that problem i do have a few block of wood and some acrylic kinda stuff maybe i give that another go that would solve the problem i dont know if just doing little touch up spots would work with the cera coat in the instuctions and training vid it says more than once that paint will remain wet to touch until it is heated maybe since it will hopeufully be just a few spots maybe hitting it with a heat gun a little will help...also thought of using a faster epoxy i have been using the acra glass you suggested a long time ago its awesome but i think that because it cures so slow that unless i sat next to it all night wiping it off as it oozes out i would always end up with excess. but maybe if i did it with a faster one i could sit there and wipe it off until it cures enough that alot wont be oozing out i got a couple ideas ill just play around with it for a little while and see what happens
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