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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
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Do any of you "cock" the slipjoint, how and with what
I have not used one but have friends that load the spring in the slipjoint with a special tool they made just for that reason. Do you cock or load your backspring and if so, tell me how you do it.
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#2
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At assy. I drive a pointed pin all the way thru the back end and spring. That forces the spring to load. Then I just cut the pin off flush and finish the knife.
There are lots of ways, another is to use a wedge in your vise. |
#3
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I set preload similarly to the way Don describes. At assembly, I move the rearmost spring pin hole so that I have about 3/64" of offset at the lock face on the spring, and then manhandle the blade into place - though I could just as easily manhandle the rear pin into its hole as well.
__________________ Kurt Huhn pipecrafter@pipecrafter.com http://www.pipecrafter.com |
#4
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To pre-load the spring here is something that I was told by J.B. Moore one of the oldest and one of the best foldermakers that I have had the prevlidge of knowing. Get a large double C vice-grips, A 2 x 4 x 8 block of wood, and some try pins.
I do not drill my center pin into the liners until the blade and spring are heat treated, and ready for assembly. Place the liners on the wood and drill for the pivot pin and the heal pin. Place one liner outside down and place the pins in both the blade-pivot and the spring heal pin. Now using the vice grips against the edge of the wood and against the back of the spring and slowly increase the tension to the point that it will walk and talk properly. This is the point that I drill the center pin into the liner. Then remove everthing and place the non drilled liner outside down onto the block and pin, then place the drilled liner and drill the center pin. Now you are ready to assemble the complete knife. I have been using this method for making slip-joints for six years now, and you can put the proper amount of tension on the spring. I hope that this helps some of you. Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#5
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I have only just started using the same method as Curtis. It works a treat and has really helped improve the action on my knives. It was a bit hit and miss before. I would recommend setting the tension a little past where you want it to end up as you will take a little off the back when you profile the liners and handle material. Then you can adjust the final spring tension by removing material from the inside of the spring between where the kick lands on it and the center pin.
Alistair |
#6
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Alistair, I'am glad to see that someone else is using something that I was shown a long time ago. Best of luck in youe folder making .
Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#7
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Curtis &/or Alistair,
Do either of you have any photos or WIP's showing your method of loading the spring. Sounds like a great way to do it but not quite able to visualize placement of double C visegrip . Thanks , Joe |
#8
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Joe I am doing som heat treat for someone else as well as working on a couple of folders tomorrow so I will take some pic's of the tension loading process and get them posted for you.
Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#9
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Thanks, Curtis ! I appreciate it greatly.
Joe |
#10
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joe this is how it works; I use an 11" vice grip shown in the first picture. Then I place the pre drilled liner on a piece of 2" x 4" and drill for the pivot and the heel pin into the wood, place the liner on the board with the blade and the heel pins in the hole. Set the load tension as shown in the second picture. In the next picture the blade at the half open position. In the last Picture the blade is in the closed position. The load should be checked in all positions. Once the blade and spring tension is set you can drilll the center pin hole. once the center pin is drilled into the one liner place the second liner with the first and pin and clamp togather for drilling the other center pin.
Using this method needs to be done after the blade and spring have been centered and evened with the risr and fall indicator as shown in the other pictures, and most importantly after heat treating is done. I hope that this is of some help. Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw Last edited by CWKnifeman; 07-14-2010 at 09:11 PM. |
#11
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Curtis,
Thanks for the excellent explainations & photos. That makes things perfectly clear ! Can't wait to give this method a try . I think it will really improve things. Joe |
#12
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The way I do it is pretty much exactly the same except I always have the vice grips just behind the pivot hole. That way I am getting the strength of the spring up to the pivot hole I found it hard to get the feel of the tension when I had the vice grips half way up the spring.
Alistair |
#13
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I'm working on a new book titled (so far) "slipjoints my Way". When it comes out in a few weeks it demonstrates how I tension the spring.
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#14
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Thanks Don. I haven't made one yet but I may yet go for it. Frank
__________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
#15
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Frank, as you know, I make just about anything, but for some reason I've gone back to slipjoints because I like to do them so much. This isn't to say I don't make other types, it just seems to be my preference right now.
Try it, you'll like it!!! |
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blade, folder, heat treat, knife, knives |
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