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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#16
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That's the problem. That's why I asked before if your blade tang has square corners. that'll never work.
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#17
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A "tip"
On the next spring, make it longer on the blade pivot end. You've got the dreaded " broken back" look. Set it up so the blade tilts slightly downward and you'll like it better. Other than that, and the sharp corners on the tang, it looks like it'll be OK. |
#18
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The spring looks very stout to me. Is it able to flex enough?
A thought I had is, are your parts getting hard enough during the initial hardening? I know you're experimenting with different tempering temperatures but are you checking to be sure they are hardening, in other words maybe when your kiln says 1850 it's really not 1850...? I agree with rounding off the corners on the tang, too. Don Last edited by Crockett; 06-15-2010 at 08:44 AM. |
#19
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When I wrote my reply above I didn't realise there was a few more replies...i was still on page one.
So if I may ask a question...do all of you make springs like that? My springs are much narrower and I typically have a rise of .070" or maybe just a tad more. Should I be using less rise, and a stouter spring? |
#20
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Quote:
I usually make mine around 0.100" thick (high) at the lockup end and thin the inside from the spring center pin forward more than his. The thick contour from the pin forward isn't helping. The sharp corners on the tang are cutting into what is obviously too soft a spring. |
#21
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So let me recap from all of the great advice
X Make the spring thinner.. at its thinnest point it is currently .158" X Round the corners on the kick X And find the right tempering Is this bassically right... okay to the batcave... err the shop Hopefully some of this will explain why it is difficult for me to open and close some of these slipjoints. I have money on thick springs Thanks guys James Last edited by Don Robinson; 06-14-2010 at 01:11 PM. |
#22
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Quote:
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#23
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James, Mike hit part of the problem right on the money. All of the corners of the tang need to be rounded over and polished. Secondly the heat treat temper of 225 is leaving the blade at too high of a Rockwell hardness for the composition of a folder try to temper it at 375 to 400 for the blade this will give you a Rockwell of 58 to 57 respectivelyfor 440-C. On a lock back a higher rockwell is ok but on a slip-joint it creats problems.
But, like I wsa saying the bigest problem is the non-rounded off corners of the tang. If you put the corner against the slack belt area (use a 320 grit belt) between a wheel and the platten area just rotate the tang of the blade to take the corner off and make it a nice rounded area, do this for both corners and then polish any scratches off. Hope that this helps, Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#24
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By the way James where are you located I might be able to point you to another maker in your area.
Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#25
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Thanks for all the help fellas. Spring # 3 is in the oven as i am writing this. I have taken the corners off the kicks and polished them off. Don I did leave the spring a little longer so the blade is just canted ( the right way) from straight. CW I just moved to Jasper TX about two hours out of Houston and sure would love just to watch an expert go through the folder process.
Thanks again guys I will write more in a few hours James |
#26
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Those aren't kicks. They are corners of the tang.
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#27
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Don thanks for the prper terminology AND (drumroll.......)
She works beatifully now.. well she did untill I over tighted the pin. ( I guess it doesnt have to be tight when its done right! ) But should be easily solved on the next one Thanks guys James |
#28
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Loosening the pin can be done easy enough. Take a 1/8" x 1/4" piece of brass and make a wedge about 1 1/2" long make the taper sharp and use it against the liners with the blade open, olace against the tang and apply a slight tap with a small hammer. Do the same to the end of the liners with the blade at half stop. This should help. If the blade is way to tight then place the wedge against the liner and the blade tang be carefull not to tap it to hard when doing this.
Let us know how it comes out. Curtis __________________ Curtis Wilson Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw |
#29
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Curtis, it worked out nicely .. It actually springs to all three positions now !!! Woot now to try this again .
Thanks James |
#30
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Whatcha mean, "try this again"??
Just do it now. You've learned the lessons. Congratulations, James. Let us see one finished. |
Tags |
ats-34, blade, brass, folder, heat treat, knife, liner lock |
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