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  #31  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:47 AM
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Ray, good summery.

David, yes to the 11 second oil. Although not quite as fast as Park's, it should do fine. Remember, we are quenching a thin cross section of steel. I believe they use a 1" steel ball to test speed on quench oils. My blades are usually .040" +/- thick at edge when quenched. Keep your clay around 1/8" thick or less.


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  #32  
Old 09-23-2009, 01:06 PM
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I added some info on tempering to the Rules which you all may wish to review for possible modification. Also, what is the group opinion on the importance of normalizing for 1095? If you feel it is important enough to include in the Rules then please advise temperature/process info....


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  #33  
Old 09-23-2009, 02:08 PM
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I would say normalizing would be very important. A must if forged, but also helpful if just ground, to reduce stresses and grain size. If one has the means, a five minute soak at quench temp will benefit the final result. Not much, but some. 1475? would be the minimum quench temp, with 1500? being possibly better, especially if for some reason you cannot soak it. For those without an oven, about two shades of red beyond non-magnetic. For those using grocery store quench oils, canola oil may be your best bet. It seems that it is the fastest quench in that type of oil. I would suggest heating the canola to about 130?. You might even get a workable blade from it. But, then again, you might not.
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  #34  
Old 09-23-2009, 06:41 PM
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Yep, like WBE said, I feel normalizing is very important.

Abnormal steel can cause problems


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  #35  
Old 09-23-2009, 06:44 PM
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Double post. sorry.


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Last edited by Don Hanson; 09-23-2009 at 06:50 PM.
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  #36  
Old 09-23-2009, 09:03 PM
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OK, normalizing, let's get specific for 1095. What's your poison, heat to 1450 or so, then air cool until black? How many times?

I'll add it to the Rules post as soon as we see some consensus on method, I don't want to just throw in my own possibly flawed interpretation ....


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  #37  
Old 09-26-2009, 12:40 PM
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OK, I added some normalizing instructions to 'the rules'. Comments about changes or additions are welcome ..........


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  #38  
Old 09-27-2009, 09:40 AM
Wade Holloway Wade Holloway is offline
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Ray I was told that you always normalize. You do it even if you do stock removal. There is a load of stress in the blade even with stock removal that needs to be removed.
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  #39  
Old 09-27-2009, 12:33 PM
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I agree Wade, makes no difference how you shape the blade you sill create stresses. I've added some normalizing information to 'the rules' post on Page 2. What I was hoping for was some input from others on the methods they use for normalizing so that the information wouldn't be just my opinion which, right now, is what it consists of .....


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  #40  
Old 11-20-2010, 04:53 PM
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  #41  
Old 11-20-2010, 09:46 PM
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Great thread we got going here.... This is defnitely a good consolidation of a lot of info that I search multiple threads and forums for.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...=379832&page=2

There's also a wealth of knowledge in the thread linked above... a lot of the same points discussed here too.

I've been working primarily with 1095 myself, but still experimenting a bit. I seem to be getting pretty good results with veg. oil based on the limited testing I've done on edge retention and what not. I'm probably gonna try the brine quench in the near future.

I'd like to try some parks #50 one of these days when I get a little more money, but it looks like the supplier linked to above is "out of business" since moving. I may see if I can source it somewhere else and get a group buy together in the future, if there's anywhere close that can get it for me.
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