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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives.

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  #16  
Old 11-01-2005, 04:12 PM
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Jeff Higgins Jeff Higgins is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Niro
Well Tik Tock.
The few words of advice I give you is don't become dissapointed if the "problems" seem to be there for what you believe to be a long time. Just keep working on them as you go. Look for excellent help in this forum, but realize in the end something you missed and failed to include may not get you an absolute answer. I sure wish that I was making the perfect knives! I'm not, but I sure try. Frank
Tikky-Tokky... Dave, how ya doin?

Frank gives good advice about this. As far as I know you've made a few knives, and you are eager to jump into folders. Good for you, but definitely keep your chin up, and be willing to make mistakes. You got fire in your belly.


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  #17  
Old 11-01-2005, 06:00 PM
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[QUOTE=Messinger]
Before I got the grinder it was being used with a slitting saw so I don't have the pieces for mounting a wheel to the spindle. These are just two bushings with shoulders that sandwitch the wheel, right? Should I turn these out of aluminium, brass, bronze?

What SFPM should I be targetting? The old motor was spinning a slitting saw faster than the 6500 SFPM the grinding wheels all seem to be rated for. I'll get new pulleys to match the needed speed when I get a new motor (old motor bent and broken).

In previous threads you recommend a Norton blue SG wheel in 46 grit, IVS hardness. Where can I buy these? MSC and Enco don't seem to carry these.

Lastly (and thanks for standing up to all these questions) with the grinder I aquired a permanent magnet chuck. It has almost ZERO grip. You almost can't tell when it's engaged. I've read three things (doing internet searches). I've read that it could be dirty inside and needs cleaned out to restore good contact. I've read that it can be "remagnitized" to restore strength. And lastly I've read that the above don't work and it's junk. I've been soaking the bolts in penetrating oil and was planning to crack it open tonight and have a look. What is your take on this?[QUOTE]

Hi, Ben. Please describe the end of your spindle. It should either have a tapered end with a left hand nut, or a mounted wheel arbor over that with a 1 1/4" diameter and thread on which to mount the wheel.

I need to know what you've got.

Get the norton wheel from a local machine shop supplier or order from

J&L industrial Supply

A 7" grinding wheel should run at 3600 RPM. A standard 3450 RPM motor should work fine.

Take the mag chuck apart and see if the lever that moves the magnet poles back and forth is actually moving them into correct postion between the seperators. The mechanism may be worn out. Let me know what you find.

I'm glad to see you guys haven't lost interest. Please forgive me for not starting another folder project here, but my plate's full at present. Somebody else take the lead and start a project in the meantime.

I'm still here, and will continue to answer questions and help to the best of my ability.
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  #18  
Old 11-01-2005, 08:17 PM
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Leaf spring auto.Ok maybe a bit dramatic but i would still love to do a leaf-spring auto project like the barlows and frame locks.I just finished a tanto,bowie and a edc and i am currently working on two folders for x-mas presents.


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  #19  
Old 11-01-2005, 10:24 PM
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Doing good so far. ATS34 is effected by etchant ( was trying to dissolve broken tap) so blade is frosted somewhat. Lock cut nicely and temp. stop pin is rock solid.Need metal for real stop pin and need to drill blade for detent ball. Make handles and send off to be HT. Looking good so far
thanks for askin.

Dave
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  #20  
Old 11-01-2005, 10:36 PM
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Good progress tonight! After dissasembly and thorough cleaning the magnetic chuck is working! Thanks guys. It's not Superman, but it's strong enough (I think).

Don, here is a picture of the arbor. The shaft is 5/8". The nut that is threaded up against the spindle housing has a 1.175" shoulder. Also pictured is a bronze bushing that is a smooth fit on the arbor, and a nut for the end of the arbor that takes two-post key to tighten/loosen. This is how it looked when I got it.

-Ben
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  #21  
Old 11-02-2005, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McAhron
Leaf spring auto.Ok maybe a bit dramatic but i would still love to do a leaf-spring auto project like the barlows and frame locks.I just finished a tanto,bowie and a edc and i am currently working on two folders for x-mas presents.

We'll have a course on building leaf spring autos in the school soon. To my design.
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  #22  
Old 11-02-2005, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Messinger
Good progress tonight! After dissasembly and thorough cleaning the magnetic chuck is working! Thanks guys. It's not Superman, but it's strong enough (I think).

Don, here is a picture of the arbor. The shaft is 5/8". The nut that is threaded up against the spindle housing has a 1.175" shoulder. Also pictured is a bronze bushing that is a smooth fit on the arbor, and a nut for the end of the arbor that takes two-post key to tighten/loosen. This is how it looked when I got it.

-Ben

All right, so some idiot has ground the taper off the end of the spindle. Make yourself a bushing that has a 1 1/4" O.D. to fit your wheels and you're in business.

Don't forget to use a paper washer on each side of the wheels.

what else?

Congrats on getting the chuck working.
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2005, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McAhron
Leaf spring auto.Ok maybe a bit dramatic but i would still love to do a leaf-spring auto project like the barlows and frame locks.I just finished a tanto,bowie and a edc and i am currently working on two folders for x-mas presents.
A button lock using a leaf spring requires using a very accurate drill press, or better yet, a vertical mill and a metal lathe to make the button.

I'm curious as to how many of you have a vertical mill and a metal lathe. ???
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  #24  
Old 11-02-2005, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Messinger
Good progress tonight! After dissasembly and thorough cleaning the magnetic chuck is working! Thanks guys. It's not Superman, but it's strong enough (I think).-Ben
Impressive, young Jedi.

Definitely keep us posted on that, bro.


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  #25  
Old 11-02-2005, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Robinson
I'm curious as to how many of you have a vertical mill and a metal lathe. ???
I do. No surface grinder in my home shop yet though. I was using the one at work, but I lost my job back in April and haven't been able to buy one since I decided to go full time.


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  #26  
Old 11-02-2005, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txcwboy
Doing good so far. ATS34 is effected by etchant ( was trying to dissolve broken tap) so blade is frosted somewhat. Lock cut nicely and temp. stop pin is rock solid.Need metal for real stop pin and need to drill blade for detent ball. Make handles and send off to be HT. Looking good so far
thanks for askin.

Dave

Hey, I'm glad you got the tap out, Dave. When are you moving down here to "On the border by the sea"?
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  #27  
Old 11-02-2005, 10:45 AM
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Thanks Don! I'll get to work on it right away. I've got my next folder designed already and I'm itch'n to use this grinder on it.

-Ben
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  #28  
Old 11-02-2005, 05:02 PM
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Well I didnt get it out, I just went right next to it. OHHH Brownsville! WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY down there. I was thinking Brownwood ! I am probably closer to 5 other states than I am Brownsville ! lol

Dave
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  #29  
Old 11-02-2005, 09:19 PM
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I have both the mill and the lathe. In hindsight i think a coil spring auto would be better. You can order the button assembly and spring and that simplifies things a bit.i love the idea of the online courses. Will there be a charge? I will post some pics of my w.i.p's this weekend along with the others i just finished.


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  #30  
Old 11-03-2005, 01:02 AM
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Don,
I forgot to mention I have a small mill and lathe now. I'm interested in all things mechanical, so leaf-spring, button-lock, whatever... I'm interested.
-Ben
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