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| The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#61
08-23-2005, 01:57 AM
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I'm taking the tedius route on this linerlock.
The blade is ground and HT 01. I'm going to try a vinager etch on this one (a first for me) Liners are cut out now from .123 Ti and I'll be playing with some colors from them in my oven (no anodizer). I'm making spacers out of 5/16 01 drill rod. They will also be heat treated and etched. Maybe some pics tomorrow. Pat McGroder 
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#62
08-23-2005, 03:15 PM
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Here's the liners and the blade. I'm not quite sure about the etching on the blade yet. It's not splochy but not quite uniform either. It's the first one I've tried so I don't have a "proper etch" to compare results. The liners were heated to 700' till they turned a golden brown. they looked good with the blade before I etched it but I was hoping for something more dramatic. Does anyone have a color chart with temps and times if I try it again? Thanx, Pat McGroder
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#63
08-23-2005, 04:34 PM
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Pat, I'm not sure I understand why you're etching the 01 blade.
Usually, a blade made of damascus with two or more different alloys is etched to bring out the pattern produced by folding and hammering the different alloys together. Are you etching to reveal a hamon? I know the colors produced by different voltages while anodizing, but don't remember the colors produced by heat.
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#64
08-23-2005, 05:03 PM
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Don, I'm etching the blade to provide a little more rust protection for it. 01 starts to rust when it sees me approach it. I'm used to stainless steels and haven't got in the proper habit(yet) of the proper and timely care of this steel. I just may go back to ATS-34 or D-2 again for this reason.
I tried 01 because it is easier for me to grind and I was doing some practice grinding to get me back up to speed after not grinding a knife for a few years. Pat
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#65
08-23-2005, 07:33 PM
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To the best of my knowledge, etching does nothing to the rust protection. It just darkens the look. 'course now I'm just asking to get my foot stuck in my mouth!
 -Brian-
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#66
08-24-2005, 12:28 AM
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Hello All.
Make another? Ijust finished the second one yesterday. How did you know? I finished a pocket model which I thought I might keep for a dress carry knife, but have decided it will go up for sale after I get it to my Buddy Ron and he sends you pictues.It has a Jim Ferguson Damascus 2 1/2" Warncliff style blade that is etched and colored blue. I have done this one with thin .040 titanium frames and overlaid pearl from one end to the other. I then cut four curved flutes on each side about a third of the way back from the front. I know there will be many that will say it really isn't a frame lock. The frames are too thin. Hey you make your's the way you want it, and I will do mine as I wish. Since I don't expect it will be used as a screw drive or pry bar, I know it will work just fine! I did say for dress carry and not work carry. You can make yours as you wish too. Any questions? I will be pleased to answer if I can. Frank __________________ Without collectors there would not be makers.
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#67
08-24-2005, 01:26 AM
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O-1 tool steel WILL rust more if it has a textured surface. Go for a mirror polished surface followed by a coat of renaissance wax and you'll not have a problem.
Andy..
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#68
08-24-2005, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
 I'm looking forward to pictures of yours.
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#69
08-29-2005, 08:15 AM
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I've been very busy with other jobs recently, and haven't had time to get back to my second linerlock. I do have the blade made and the liners cut out. this one will be a large one using 3/32" liners.
Just checking with you guys to see if you've made any more progress on yours.
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#70
08-29-2005, 11:52 AM
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ok i think its time to get the blade heat treated. i need to send it out but to who?
the blade is ats-34 but i have a pivot bushing pressed in to the pivot hole. will this be a problem when the heat treatment is done? ....justin
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#71
08-29-2005, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
You will have to remove the bushing BEFORE the heat treatment...It WILL melt!! The bushing does not have to be fitted so tight as to not be easily removable. Andy..
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#73
08-29-2005, 01:25 PM
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I didnt realise it was a stainless bushing, most use a bronze bush in folders. Anyway, no heat treatment company would attempt to heat treat with the bushing in place.
I would really sugest you press out the bush and re-fit when HT'd. For comercial heat treaters why not try Texas Knife Supply, I don't have there catalogue to hand but from memory they are quite resonable if your in the U.S. Andy..
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#74
08-29-2005, 01:32 PM
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Justin, what kind of steel is the blade made of?
And what kind of SS is the bushing made of? If the blade is 0-1, for instance, then the hardening temperature will definitely ruin the hardness of the bushing. Best to take it out. In answer to your question, you can send the blade to Texas Knifemaker's Supply if the blade is air hardening steel. If the blade is 0-1, you can heat treat it yourself with a torch. You can find instructions for that in the forum archives or we can lead you through torch hardening.
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#75
08-30-2005, 10:12 AM
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guys thanks for the replys
the blade steel is ATS-34. the bushing is out but im not sure what stainless it is but i got them from knifekits.com. for the heat treat Texas Knifemaker's Supply is who i was going to go with but i was looking for other options. ...justin
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| Tags |
| blade, fixed blade, folding knife, forge, hunting knife, knife, knives |
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