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| The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
02-11-2004, 06:16 PM
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flat head
hey all,
i have some .04 titanium for liners and am going to use 2-56 flat head screws from the hardware store but if i counter sink the holes enough to hide the whole head ill have no threads left, are the flat head screws form tks diff than what id get from the hardware store? THX Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar 
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#2
02-11-2004, 06:41 PM
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The screws are probably about the same. What is this about having no threads left? If these screws are to secure the scale to the handle you don't need any threads in the scale material. If these screws are to hold the knife together then there are no threads in the side of the handle where the screw head is, the threads will only be in the opposite side of the handle. You should be able to countersink all you
want......... __________________ Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!   
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#3
02-11-2004, 07:24 PM
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the screws will be to hold the knife together with out the scales, will it be as strong if the threads are only on one side?
THX Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar
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#4
02-11-2004, 08:02 PM
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I don't know about how much differnce it will make to the overall strength of the knife but I know I have never seen a folder put together with screws any other way. There is a good reason for this. Try putting threads in both handle slabs - you will have one i chance in a thousand of being able to screw the knife together properly. Try it, you'll see .........
__________________ Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!
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#5
02-11-2004, 08:14 PM
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Ray is right. Countersink one liner, tap the other, drill a clearance hole through your spacer (or standoffs). Use one screw per hole, through the c'sunk liner, the spacer, and into the tapped liner.
.040" Ti will provide the bare minimum number of threads for 2-56 screws. You don't want to whang down too hard on them (although chances are screws from the hardware store will strip before the liner does). Be careful with the countersink. It can walk, ever so slightly, and your whole frame will be out of alignment. Clamp the liner down good and use a center finder to make sure the c'sink is lined up with the hole. -Frank J Warner __________________ --Frank J Warner Happiness is tight gibs and a flat platen. http://www.franksknives.com/
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#7
02-11-2004, 08:56 PM
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Yes Bill. You only need threads on the far away side. Any spacers or standoffs should be drilled for clearance. Unless.......you do it Tom Mayo style where he drills clearance holes on both sides of the frame and then uses a threaded spacer and two short screws, one from each side. You could do that too if you wanted but it's a bit easier to just go with clearance holes on the front and through the spacers and use only one screw.
Make sure you drill the initial hole with the two frame pieces clamped together or your holes will not be aligned. After match drilling you can separate them and drill the front piece out for clearance and then tap the other one.
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#8
02-11-2004, 09:13 PM
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ok so if im going to use only two screws should i have the threads on diff sides for each screw or both on one side?
Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar
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#9
02-11-2004, 09:56 PM
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Assembly will be easier if one liner is tapped and the other one countersunk. All screws go the same direction. It doesn't matter which liner is your "nut," but think through your assembly method very carefully before chosing. On some knives, the lock side makes a better nut. On others, it doesn't.
-Frank J Warner __________________ --Frank J Warner Happiness is tight gibs and a flat platen. http://www.franksknives.com/
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#10
02-11-2004, 11:11 PM
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Bill, drill thru both liners with the tap size bit and then seperate them and countersink the liner the screws will be going thru. Then
drill the holes with the #43 bit for the thru holes. You'll get a more accurate countersink that way. Also, don't countersink anymore than you have to. You can sand off a little bit of the screw heads to make them flush with the liners. If you countersink too much the screw will seat so far into the threaded hole on the other liner that it will bottom out and you won't be able to tighten it up. Just takes some fiddlin with and you'll see what I mean.
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#11
02-12-2004, 05:40 AM
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ok now im guessing that for the scales (440c) ill want to tap the spacer and not just the ti closest to the scales?
Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar
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#12
02-12-2004, 08:49 AM
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It doesn't matter what the scales (or a solid handle) is made out of. The above discussions pretty well covered all the normal ways of screwing a knife together.
No threads on the locking liner. No threads anywhere except on the handle furthest away from the screw head - unless you thread the back spacer and put screws in from both sides. Then, only the back spacer has threads. All the methods work are about equally effective, all the methods can be used on most any knife that has a metallic frame. See, this is an excellent advertisment for kit folders. Putting together a cheap kit folder or two before making your own knives can save you a world of grief on issues like this one..... __________________ Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!
Last edited by Ray Rogers; 02-12-2004 at 09:02 AM.
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#13
02-13-2004, 04:41 PM
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this has been a great thread, frank what is the minimum number of threads the 2-56 needs?
THX Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar
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#14
02-13-2004, 06:09 PM
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Bill,
Frank said in his post that .040 material will provide the bare minimum number of threads. It doesn't matter how many threads that is because you can't put any more or any less threads for 2-56 in a .040 sheet. You don't have to use .040 material for your handle slabs, yano. You can use .040 for the lock and use .050 for the handle slabs. That way, the screw can pass through the liner and thread into the .050 handle. The extra thickness of the .050 will allow for more threads..... __________________ Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!
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#15
02-13-2004, 06:39 PM
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ok, don't know what yano is but thats ok. my scales will be 1/16 440c. i asked because i want to countersind the scales pass the screw through the scale thread into the liner pass through the spacer and thread into the other liner i was just wondering if that would provide enough strangth
Bill:evil __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar
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