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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives.

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  #16  
Old 10-31-2003, 06:21 AM
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Jeff Higgins Jeff Higgins is offline
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Are you guys doing this on a 14" bandsaw? I'm thinking of the kinds that take a 92" blade? Maybe I'll have to put the big pulley on mine and give it a go.


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  #17  
Old 11-01-2003, 12:07 AM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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Hello Jeff. Yes that's the saw I converted. don't forget the part about the tires needing to be glued down. It won't hurt anything if you go back to slower speeds again. If you have a three pulley system on your machine , you will be able to get the required speed from two of the three after figuring which to use , of course, removing the intermediate pulley,and getting a belt for the new distance is needed to be done. A 14 teeth per inch hard back blade is what I use. After some cutting time you may be surprised to find the cutting is going fine even though the sharpeness and some of the set is gone. It will continue to cut long after this has happened. Frank


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  #18  
Old 11-01-2003, 10:40 AM
badboris badboris is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank Niro
I do almost all of my blade shaping and grinding once the steel has been heat treated by a specialty shop
with all the heat from cutting, can you tell me why the area near the cuts keeps the heat treatment

badboris
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  #19  
Old 11-01-2003, 10:48 AM
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Kevin Wilkins Kevin Wilkins is offline
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I have an 1100 pound bandsaw for cutting metal and using bimetal blades running slow it cuts anything I put under it. I can also cut very nice curves and follow contours etc. I put a layer of masking tape on the bottom side of the piece I am cutting. This keeps metal particles from scratching the underside as I am cutting. This works really well with Ti.


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  #20  
Old 11-01-2003, 08:21 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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Hey Kevin,I guess almost all of us would be happy with an 1100 pound band saw. Can it cut hardened blade steel? My converted wood cutter can and does titanium faster than it could cut wood before. Frank


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  #21  
Old 11-02-2003, 03:07 AM
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Kevin Wilkins Kevin Wilkins is offline
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Hi Frank, you'd be happy with it until it comes time to move the thing around!! :-) The saw has a transmission like on a car so I can do pretty high speeds, but then I need to change to roller blade guides. I now have full carbide guides which are betterr for slower speeds. I use a small table top bandsaw for cutting wood and grip materials, generally I thing "Steel goooood. Wood baaaddddd" :-)

I have never needed to cut hardened steel. Depending on the hardness of the material to be cut, Bi-metal blades running slow with a very slow feed and flood cooling should work. but considering the way I work, if it comes that, I''m already in a World of Sh*t. :-) I would be leary of using any method that transfered heat to the hardened material in other than micro areas. Stress and loss of hardness would - I think - be a problem. Wire EDOM (I think thats the engilsh name) is a good way to profile hardened steel or water jet cutting if the machine is an accurate one and the operator is very very good. All work I do on hardened material is abrasive grinding.


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  #22  
Old 11-07-2003, 01:49 AM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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Hello again Badboris. Does your grinding affect your heat treated blades? You take steps to prevent that. If the blade outline is cut just a very short distance away from the outline and then a belt grinder is used to get to the line, there isn't any over heating problem. Frank


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  #23  
Old 11-07-2003, 01:15 PM
badboris badboris is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank Niro
Hello again Badboris. Does your grinding affect your heat treated blades? You take steps to prevent that. If the blade outline is cut just a very short distance away from the outline and then a belt grinder is used to get to the line, there isn't any over heating problem. Frank
thank you Frank
just wanted to know for sure how localized the hot area was, does cutting 1/16" away from the outline mark ok or better at 1/8"
i have not friction cut yet. i want to find a cheap wood bandsaw with a 1750rpm motor and switch it for a 3500rpm one
about the wheels how do i do as you advise, do i cut the rubber tire then contact cement them or is there a better way to cement it?
i would like to get pre harden steel so friction cut for profiling is ideal for me. what is the best way to drill the pivot hole on harden steel, would softening the tang/hole area a good idea or would it be too soft then. badboris
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  #24  
Old 11-08-2003, 11:44 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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I sure like it when some one makes me feel I might be able to help them a bit. At one time I was doing a lot of new employee training in a pulp mill. It was the greatest boost for me NEXT to knife making. Anyway -. You can just roll the rubber tires off and if they look reasonably good replace them using contact cement on the tires and rims. Remember it is not only important to get the blade speed up about 5000 feet per minute but you need horsepower as well. Two horspower from what I have been told is ideal. The one horsepower motor I have is barely enough. What happens with the low horsepower is the drag on the blade causes the blade to want to slip on the tires. Not only does it then not want to cut but the tires start to heat up and may want to come off. I try to place my cutting about 3/32" or more from lines on all metals hard or soft you will have a burr created on all cut lines. You will find it is difficult to cut sharp curves and if you don't keep the material moving it is easy to create a real hard spot in the metal that can be much harder than what you were cutting that you now have to cut through. I hope I answered all of tyour questions Badboris. I have been slow to use the computer but ony because my provider a teephone company has been having nothing but trouble. Frank


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  #25  
Old 11-08-2003, 11:47 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
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You can buy carbide drill bits that will drill precise holes through high Rockwell materials. Frank


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  #26  
Old 11-09-2003, 12:01 AM
badboris badboris is offline
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Frank, the way you explain is what i need and appreciated, thanks.
only one left, do you drill then HT or if you get your blanks HT first how do you deal with drilling after HT. badboris
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2003, 12:02 AM
badboris badboris is offline
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i answered before i saw you second reply
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  #28  
Old 11-14-2003, 04:49 PM
kilone kilone is offline
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hf bandsaw

Has anyone used the hf band saw? if you used a bigger motor would it work?
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  #29  
Old 01-21-2004, 02:33 PM
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Missing the point.

Those of you who use toothed blades and slow speeds to cut metal on a band saw are missing the point. Its called FRICTION cutting for a reason.

In fact I have done it on a totally smooth (toothless) blade with just a slight addition of come abrasive grit. It really is the best way to cut stainless steel cleanly and easily. So much so that it used to be used for production work before the advent of high pressure water, laser and plasma cutters.

The abrasive sets into the "soft" steel of the blade giving a good matrix for the cutting action. This principle is how they facet diamonds, Jus they use a flat iron platen and diamond grit. I figure if its good enough to cut diamond I think it'll probably cut steel, even hard steel.

The best part with the toothless blade is that if you slip you still get to keep all your fingers.
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