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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
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friction cutting
Anyone using the friction cutting method with bandsaw, can you tell me what kind of blade and what speed you run the the blade. Also the part number of the blade and where to buy them.
T.I.A. Roland |
#2
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Hey Roland,
How have you been. The faster the better on the blade speed and any blade will do. You can even reverse them. Just but the cheap ones. Blade speed, 5000 to 7000 sfm works real good. Give me a call or e-mail when you get a chance. Michael |
#3
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Michael-
Spotted your name posted up on the thread and just wanted to say welcome to the CKDForums... Very glad to have you here. When I first got attracted to knifemaking 1 1/2 years ago, I started up a photo file on my computer desktop which contained images of my favorite knives (I now have quite a few of those "Favorite Knives" files). On the day I started that file, one of the very first pics to make it in there was of one of your folders...I remember it clearly...It had apple coral scales and a damascus bolster with a beautiful fileworked spine.....oh yeh, and a matching red thumbstud. I couldn't wait to get my hands on some red coral after seeing that knife! It's master craftsmen like you that help keep me inspired to push my own envelope. Definitely looking forward to seeing more of you here... Dennis Greenbaum Yeah Baby! PS. Can you explain more about friction cutting...what is it and what's it for?:confused: |
#4
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I have been using a friction cutting band saw for six or seven years now. I converted a wood cutting band saw by simple pulley and belt changes to give me about 5500 ft. per min. My motor is a little under power at 3/4 HP but it still has done a good job for me. this saw works great on any material under 5/32" . By any I mean just that. I can cut planner blades, files, hardened Ats-34, 440C, Damascus, titanium etc. What happens is the speed of the saw actually turns the place where they meet the metal red hot and leaves a burr on the underside cut line. If you stop before you complete the cut you may form a very hard spot and will find it just a bit difficult to get under way again. If you make or are going to make foldrers it is the real cat's wiskers! Most people just don't want to believe how well it works. I use the hard back blades but have tried the flex back and found they are no better and maybe even not as good. Hopes this helps some. Frank
__________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
#5
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One of the things I have always hated about knifmaking was the cutting of the steel to the profile of the blade.
So let me get this straight... You use a regular bi-metal bandsaw blade, but run it like a bat outta hell, and it cuts the metal without burning up? Doesn't sound right, but if you say it works, I'll try it. |
#6
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friction cut
Dennis, thanks for the kind words. Frank pretty well decribes what goes on when you friction cut. I use it to cut titanium for the liners of my folders . Jamey don't go to the expence of a bi-metal blade. A cheap one from your local hardware will work just fine.
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#7
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And there you are with the blade thing. I use the very same as Michael does. I do almost all of my blade shaping and grinding once the steel has been heat treated by a specialty shop with a vacuum furnace and cryogenic services. Damasteel Damascus heat treated is one of my favorites . I have purchased billets from smiths and have them heat treat it before sending it to me. That saw does wonderful things and can be so easy to get together. I suggest if you are going to try one out, make sure the tires on the band saw wheels are in reasonable condition and then contact cement them in place. The difference is a go instead of a no go. Oh yes another thing you might want to know is that these saws cut hardened material far better than soft materials. Non hardened Damascus can be difficult to cut, while it is far easier to cut the hardened stuff . Ask for more and I will be pleased to answer. Frank
__________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
#8
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and here i have been working on slowing down my bandsaw to cut metal when all i needed to do was speed it up hmmmm imagin that
__________________ sharp and pointy sharp and pointy giving you your sharp and pointy fix since 1995 |
#9
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Well my hats off to you guys who do that. I have a metal-cutting bandsaw and run it real slow for Ti. I find my nerves last longer that way!
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#10
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Very interesting replies and some good information too. I am on the side of converting a wood band saw, using cheap blades and stand back. It will go through a file in seconds. I did it a little differently than pulleys though. I took the 1/2 hp motor off and put in a 2hp, 3450 rpm,( the old one was 1725, pretty much standard) changed out the pads where the blade runs and it really did well. However, that saw is in Alaska where I left it and now I only use a slow speed saw. This forum makes me want another though.
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#11
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Hey Jeff, what are you worried about that you have to stand back from the saw from? And Dave you did it right with that 2HP motor. If I could get one at a low cost I would replace the one I have. Frank
__________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
#12
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Frank,
I'm the type of guy who is always the one who gets lost in his work and winds up doing something to get hurt. The more predictability and safety I build into my machinery the better for me. It allows me to relax and work on my work, and not worry about the machine blowing up, or worse, me getting sawn in half or something. I've been a machinst and mechanic my entire working life and have suffered many injuries. I'm a second generation machinist and a 3rd generation blacksmith. I can still count all ten fingers and ten toes, so I must be doing something right. Mind you, this is just me. I respect machinery and I try not to use them for other than their intended purpose. If you guys have great success cutting steel your way, then thats great! So like I said... my nerves rest easier doing it s-l-o-w. |
#13
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Jeff I respect your opinions and particularly your decision. A few years back A fellow supposedly interested in me making him a knife whanted a visit to my shop. As soon as I showed him my factory built 2" X 72" belt grinder he said to me that would be a very dangerous machine to use in the manner I showed him. There is no danger created when a band saw blade breaks unless the guards have been removed . When a blade snaps on a fast moving band saw even a wood one the blade is retained within the guard. If care isn't taken with blade alignment and that could cause some real excitement . Miss use is the main cause of equipment accidents, not there speed of opperation. But hey, these are juat my points of view.Frank
__________________ Without collectors there would not be makers. |
#14
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dont thay sell frichon cut band saws?
__________________ sharp and pointy sharp and pointy giving you your sharp and pointy fix since 1995 |
#15
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friction saws
Yes friction cutting bandsaws are available from various sources, also friction cutting bandsaw blades.
Roland |
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blade, forge, forging, knife, knife making, knives |
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