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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#16
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Thanks Tim for the advise .. i will try that again . and i will see you at the n.y. custom knife show i will be there on sat and i will bring one of my knifes with me ..
__________________ ron p. nott |
#17
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Ron,
Sorry to say I wont be at this New York show as the AKI show is the weekend before it in San Diego. Frank, I ream each hole seperately and measure everything with a caliper. The easiest way to explain how the 3 pieces are reamed is if you reamed all of them clamped together as a knife and taper ream them, then took out the blade and reamed it an additional .150 deeper, this is how they are set up. Then you arbor press the pin into the large hole side frame the additional .150 deeper than it is reamed for so the pin meets the blade hole perfectly. Assemble that frame side with blade, lockbar and butt spacer, put a .002 stainless shim on the small hole side of the blade then hammer the small hole frame side down onto it hard. Peen the small hole side then pull the shim. If there is any sideplay left a few light peens again on the small hole side of the pin will take care of it. Use the standard taper pin reamers. I use size 0 for my interframes and just get a #0 straight flute taper pin reamer. I had a bunch od #0 taper pins made in 416. Last edited by HermanKnives; 10-08-2003 at 01:44 AM. |
#18
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I've been on vacation, and missed out on the replies. It is always nice to get away from the real world.
I have read your post about 100 times trying to figure out what to do. I think I will hit the shop and test the taper pin method on my next folder. Does anyone sell these taper pins or do they have to be made? Also, what is an arbor press? Bob Cannon __________________ May God the Father and the Lord Jesus Christ give you grace and peace. |
#19
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I think you'll have to make the taper pins or have them made.
This is an arbor press: |
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blade, knife, knives |
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