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#1
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handle wrapping materials
I do wrapped handles diamond-twisted in the Japanese style. I have used a variety of materials including nylon ribbon, cotton shoelace and nylon braided cord (called "6mm dog lead") They all twist well and the cotton shoelace impregnates with acrylic or epoxy really quite well. They sold well at the last local show.
What do other people use ? Where do you get it ? I really want to get a hold of SILK braided cord. Thanks & cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#2
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http://www.alpha-supply.com/23.htm
http://www.atkinsandpearce.thomasreg...e/atkprods.htm http://www.braid.net/ http://www.auverasoie.com/html/gb/p_soie.htm http://www.nashvillewraps.com/ShowTy...3&Link=LeftNav http://www.sichuan-silk.com/pframe.html There may be something in one of these. __________________ Mike |
#3
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THANK YOU
Mike,
Thats awesome stuff. Thanks so much. I should start looking... Mike, do you have a website ? I can't always sort out how to use the various links. Would love to see some of your work. Always looking for inspiration. Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#4
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No, I don't have a website.
__________________ Mike |
#5
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Fred Lohman
I've bought cotton ito from Fred Lohman . You can request samples of silk, he has two "weights", for waki and for katana, and various colors. He also has leather, which is fantastic stuff. I'm going to do a leather tanto in the near future.
Dave |
#6
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Thanks Dave
The silk wraps are of course the traditional choice and they look extremely good. I'm not familiar with these sorts of textiles, but I'm amazed how long the silk wrap lasts, including on antique swords.
The other variable to take into account is whether or not the wrap material takes the stabilising resin well or not. I've played with the "dog lead" material quite a bit and it looks very good, but it must have some component of polyethylene or polyprolylene in it because if flexed hard, the resin "drops off." On the other hand, cotton just sucks up the resin and turns into a solid block of funky looking wrap. Sometimes, can't be helped till you get a chance to play with the wrap a bit. Silk absorbs resin and superglue materials quite well, from what I hear. Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#7
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I've had pretty good luck with the cotton and epoxy, haven't tried super glue because of the risk of it turning white. They say additional coats will alleviate that but by the time I'm working on the handle I don't want to take much risk. So I stick with epoxy, I know what to expect from it.
I've often wondered how silk would respond to epoxy, so am looking forward to learning your experience. And I'm looking forward to the leather wrap. I think it might even be good for hunting knives, but that's something I'd have to test a long time before I'd be willing to sell it. It sure is "grippy" though. __________________ Dave What's another word for synonym? |
#8
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HI,
I use cotton shoelace from the spool (shoemaker's supplies)and epoxy most of the time for the Japanese styles, but also for braided or woven styles that I use on Scottish Dirks f.e.. Several types of (military surplus) parachute cord react wel to epoxy too. When doing a cord-wrap I often use superglue to hold the cotton cord or shoelace -end instead of using a knot ,before applying the epoxy. On lighter colour cotton cord it tends to end up lighter in colour than the rest but on dark or black ribbon it turns white first, but the white dissapeares when the epoxy is applied. Jan |
#9
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Similar experience, Jan
I've never thought of working on Sgain Dhu's or larger Scottish style blades, but I might give it a go, if it involves some braiding or wrapping instead of the more common carved wooden handles.
I used to get very upset about the superglue turning white as it cured on the black lace. One solution to this was to lightly and slowly hand sand back some of the high spots with 240grit paper. This also removes some of the very sharp and uncomfortable points on the handle. I then dip the whole handle in Danish oil and dab off the excess with a paper towel. When set (overnight) the danish oil wicks into all the pores that create the white bubbly defects and eliminates them and also finishes the handle to a lovely warm, glossed or lacquered finish, especially underneath the wrap. This seems to show off the leather underlays I use a lot better. I use a gel superglue to hold the individual braids in place as I twist the other strand. Makes the job a whole lot easier. Like you, I've now turned more to superglueing the end rather than knotting. Its just as strong and if I remember to make a large hole in the tang, there should still be enough space for a lanyard hole. Thanks for your feedback Jan. Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#10
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I hope to get a scanner or digital camera soon, so I can get my knives on the net .I have 2 Scottish dirks finished with epoxy-impregnated cotton-cord and shoelace. If you happen to be in Belgium next weekend 9 and 10 november drop in at the 3rd BKS knife show in Gembloux, somewhere south of brussels.Then I could show you.(everybody is invited D )
It's not very difficult if you know how, but in words it's very difficult to put.: Got To go, Jan P.S. BKS is the "Belgian Knife Society " |
#11
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The kids are in bed and I'm back
I like wrapped handles a lot and make them in several different styles, from Japanese to Scottish and some patterns that I developed myself and I never saw anywhere else. I prefer using cotton cord and shoelace, because when epoxy-impregnated it becomes kind of custom-molded"Micarta" and can be worked that way. I also use synthetic woven thread and cord, starting with nylon Trout-fishing line,(also used in shoe repair and leather sheats )over cord of 1 , 2 and 3 mm,and parachute-cord. All depending on the pattern and the effect I 'm looking for. One of the tricks is doing the wraps not to tight,so the epoxy gets the opportunity to fully penetrate the wrapping material. Concentrate on getting an even pattern and correct where neccessary before applying the epoxy. If you don't plan epoxy over the final wrap this has to be as tight as possible to keep in place! I buy a lot from a shoemakers-supply: 3 kinds of superglue (cyanoacrylate): thin, a bit thicker (but not yet gel) and a "flexible" type (suitable for leather too) (Bottles of 20 or 50grams) It's industrial grade and lots cheaper than the miniature bottles at the hardware store. Shoelace on a 25meter spool , "trout-line" and leather,needles and waxed thread for sheats of course. Jan |
#12
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Coincidence or not ?
Jan, Great minds must think alike ! Your approach and your experiences with wrapping (and the struggles to get stuff on the net) sounds almost identical to mine !
Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#13
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Hi(gh)? Jason
Check the "Bright white" thread concerning use of epoxy in home made laminate slabs I just left. Jan This is almost a chatbox |
#14
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At last a step forward!
My first photo on imagestation. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290920849&idx=1 It's a dirk forged from an old lawnmowerblade, edge quenched and the handle wrapped with cotton cord and shoelace. The Tartan is the Cameron of Erracht Jan I just learned some visitors need a username and password for imagestation, so try Visit01 and knives Last edited by Jan Dox; 08-25-2003 at 11:27 AM. |
#15
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It's epoxy-impregnated of course and the blade etched in vinegar for 48 hours.
Jan |
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blade, knife, knives |
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