Anhydrous Borax

[JeffreyPrater]

I found a source for anhydrous borax in an old post, clayartcenter.com in tacoma. Their prices are fine but shipping to KY is equal to the cost of the borax.

Does anyone have a source closer to East or southeast?

[Mike Hull]

http://www.clayartcenter.com/

[Mike Hull]

Here's a place in Pittsburgh.
http://www.etimineusa.com/anhydrous_borax.htm

Here's a manufacturer in CA. You might contact them for a distributer near you.
http://www.borax.com/products1.html

[mike koller]

Hey Jeffrey,

If you do find a place close, please let us know.
I haven't been able to find a supplier close either, I use Mule team and would like to try the other before I bought a huge quanity of it.


Thanks,
Mike K

[JeffreyPrater]

everyone I find either sells in large bulk, or do not sell to individuals so I am going to order some from clayartcenter.com.

I have used 20 mule team for years, but want to try the anhydrous and see if I can get better results.

[mike koller]

Thanks Jeffrey,
I will continue to look for it closer.

[Michael Sanchez]

I used Anhydrous Borax exclusively for a few years and then Jim Fergeson talked to me about the 20 Mule Team. Let me tell you that when it comes to pattern Weld it is the only I am using now. Jim explained to me about the bath he made and how he just lets the billet soad for awhile. There is now mess or need to flux between heats or (best of all) no flux dripping off to eat the lining.

Unfortunately because of the junk in cable I am still using Anhydrous for that, but the bath for welding a billet is really working nice.

mike

[mike koller]

Intresting.....

Are you soaking the billet before welding (it just wired up or tacked together with electric welder)?

What about after it has been in the forge a few times?

Does it remove forge scale when it is in a cool liguid form like when it is hot?

Thx.


Maybe more questions later.

[Michael Sanchez]

I just clean it wire it and throw it in the bath. According to Jim by allowing the billet to soak the crystals coat each piece of metal and restricts the oxidation, which happens before you flux using Anhydrous. I have found fewer inclusions, if any, and less risks of flux flying.

I don't flux inbetween heats, the first soak seems to be enough. The only draw back is judging the heat. I use to use the bubbling of the flux to judge welding heat but with this method I don't get any bubbling (saving the lining because the bubbling is flux flowing out). I have had to learn to judge the heat by color, still seems to be working though.

Mike

[Darren Ellis]

Hi Michael,

When you say "bath", does that mean you are putting the 20 Mule Team Borax in a container and then heating it until it liquifies and then soaking the billet in it?

-Darren

[Michael Sanchez]

By bath I mean that I heat up some water to below boiling and add 20 Mule Team until the liquid is saturated. I let it cool and place it in container that will fit the billet/s that I will be working and throw my billets in it.

Preheat the forge to approx. 2400 degrees.
Place billet in forge until a nice yellow orange
Remove from forge weld
nutralize
allow to cool and serve ground and finished.

Sorry, I'm getting into the Thanksgiving mood..... I have Turkey cooking duty this year

Mike

[mike koller]

Thanks mike!!!

[Darren Ellis]

Thanks from me too Mike!!

I hear you about the Thanksgiving mood I think I'm going to fire up the the BBQ and smoke a Turkey this year myself!

-Darren

[fitzo]

Hey, Darren,

Hope all is going well with you, knifemaking, and thesis work. Wish you could get into Paltalk.

BTW, are those turkeys hard to light to smoke em???

[Michael Sanchez]

Bad Mike