What's up fellas?

[Kevster]

This is my latest blade, the scales are some mesquite root I cut up.

Tell me what y'all think?



I did some file work under the scales.

[jmccustomknives]

Can't wait to see the finished product. I've become quite a fan of mesquite.

[Kevster]

Btw, this blade is 1095 and I've never heat treated it so any advice would be helpful, I've done 1084 with good results. Is it about the same? Doug?

[Hurley]

Hi Kevster, some good looking filework on that blade! And good looking scales, can't wait to see the finished blade!

[NorCal Nate]

Do you have Parks 50? 1095 needs a fast quench
The last 1095 blade I did I quenched it in H20....It hardened nicely, and warped real good too!
Since I dont have any parks 50 myself I've been rather reluctant to attempt any more 1095.
~Nate

[Kevster]

Originally Posted by NorCal Nate

Do you have Parks 50? 1095 needs a fast quench
The last 1095 blade I did I quenched it in H20....It hardened nicely, and warped real good too!
Since I dont have any parks 50 myself I've been rather reluctant to attempt any more 1095.
~Nate

Yes I do, I'm sure if I treat it to just above non magnetic and quench it real fast it should be good, just looking for the pros opinions.

[Ray Rogers]

That is pretty much the pros opinion. The big difference between 1084 and 1095 is that 1095 absolutely needs a pro oil like Parks 50. Other than that, the process is the same.

However, there is a wide variety in the way 1095 is made these days so the results you get with one bar could differ greatly from what happens with another bar ...

[mitchmountain]

I'm doing my 1095 in canola warmed to about 120f and getting good results, hard enough to skate a file and finishes up nice. Kind of losing my love for this steel though, it stains reeaally easy, not rust necessarily but stains quick. But it is cheap, takes a great edge, keeps it well and sharpens easy. I'm going to make a few out of d2 next and see how they turn out.


Mm

[Ray Rogers]

MM,

Do you have an oven? No oven, no D2 unless you're just into wasting money. For all intents and purposes, D2 is essentially a stainless steel - it's a tad shy on chromium, just enough to avoid being called stainless but the HT process for it is pretty much a stainless process. What I said about stainless and forges applies to D2.

BTW, canola oil won't get 1095 to full conversion. Yes, it gets very hard but not the right crystalline structure. The problem is similar to doing stainless or O1 in a forge - you can make a serviceable knife for sure but what you get is far short of what those steels are capable of giving you ...

[racjarrett88]

You can quench 1095 in water/brine but will lose a good percentage of them to cracking. It's 1084 for me till I get my oven and then who knows. Good luck

Austin

[mitchmountain]

I have an oven, but only goes to 1750 or so. I'm not doing the treat myself in d2, having my friend whobis a tool and die maker with professional setup do it. He does it as a favor so I can't beat his prices.

Mm

P.s. I like my canola setup, it makes my knives smell like French fries. I bet parks doesn't do that .

[BigCountry86]

I have had great hardness results with canola oil. Keep the oil close and get it in as quickly as possible. Then return it to the furnace until critical a second time and quench it again. Then follow tempering instructions to get the hardness you want. I only heat my oil to 110 dergrees Fahrenheit and have no trouble with warpage.

[Kevster]

I decided to take the file work to the tip on this one and I'm glad I did. I haven't attached or shaped the handles yet but here it is.

[racjarrett88]

Gonna be awesome.

Austin

[Kevster]

Here it is done, I just need to make the sheath.