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  #61  
Old 05-17-2006, 06:22 PM
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Here's one one close to my suggestion except it has an aluminum cap. Sorry for the quality. This is an insurance photo.
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File Type: jpg #1-8 leather finger groove 6.jpg (12.7 KB, 89 views)


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Last edited by tomthbomb; 05-17-2006 at 06:29 PM.
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  #62  
Old 05-17-2006, 06:51 PM
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Hi Tom!

I do like the look of those leather finger grips.

You also said: "This is an insurance photo." Does this mean that you deliberately fuzzied up the image so you can potentially claim to have 99.9% silver fittings (supplied by our pal silverknife) if need be?

Cheers!

Moosehead


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  #63  
Old 05-17-2006, 07:15 PM
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This may be jumping ahead, but I love the leather fingergroove handle and brass buttcap. EITHER all black or all red spacers.
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  #64  
Old 05-18-2006, 08:55 AM
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Ron,
....You are very right about the finger gripped leather looking good.
jc
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  #65  
Old 05-18-2006, 12:14 PM
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I'm going with BoBlade's suggestion of a practical fighter.
I also love the leather handle/right hand finger grip (I think I have one on order from the shop).

But, I do have a question. Would a leather handle tend to hold blood stains?
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  #66  
Old 05-18-2006, 05:27 PM
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RedElk,
Leather handles "hold" a good amount of crud. I like them, but there is a maintenance concern. Leather handled Randalls, especially older, well-used ones have a look and feel all their own. If leather gets too wet or too dry you have to treat it. I have taken brand new ones out of my safe after only a couple of weeks, and had the alum weep from between the rings.
Everybody needs to know about these unforseen problems. Take care of it and it is very enjoyable to own, but it is "not" "push-button automatic" like a micarta handle. Not only are finger grips available on leather handles but single finger grips are as well.
Best, Capt. Chris Stanaback


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  #67  
Old 05-18-2006, 06:39 PM
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Hi Cap,

I just want to be sure everyone understands that while leather handles require some care, that care is pretty minimal in my opinion:

1. Keep it clean
2. Don't let it stay wet for extended periods of time
3. Put some kind of leather dressing on it from time to time so it doesn't get too dry.

I can personally attest to one that is over 60 years old and still very serviceable after a lot of use and significant neglect from time to time. There are always tradeoffs:Micarta or stag has the maintenance advantage, but leather has a "grip" advantage that actually improves with use.

Best,

Ron

Last edited by BoBlade; 05-18-2006 at 07:26 PM.
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  #68  
Old 05-18-2006, 08:18 PM
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Thumbs up Building Project

Hello all; its been a while since I posted. Like most of you I sometimes get consumed with my job and all the other day to day chores. I've enjoyed reading everyone's input on the model 1. When it comes down to it, what was the model 1 originally designed for? I say one of the best fighting knives in the world (along with being a war time camp knife). With that in mind, here's my 2 cents worth: I would opt for a 6" carbon steel blade. 7" is nice but 6" is usually easier to carry in a combat situation especially when you are lugging a bunch of other gear with it. Carbon steel, for me, has always been superior to stainless and easier to sharpen in the field (who cares about the chance of a little corrosion when you are carrying a "survival/backup weapon knife". I would also opt for a micarta handle; it is strong and impervious to most climate situations. In this case I would say go with a custom brown or tan since our current war time situation is in mostly a dessert environment. The handle shape would be border patrol, for me it gives you the best grip. The guard and butt cap would be nickle silver. In particular, in the case of the butt cap the nickle silver is harder than aluminum and better at being used as a hammer (yes, you sometimes need to do that in certain situations). Also, I would have a thong hole for a lanyard. Nothing is worse that dropping your knife in the dark or down a steep ravine when in hard use. Again, this would be my choice for a model 1 in a real use situation. Of course, like most of you, the model 1 I own (two of them actually) are in mint condition sitting in my knife collection. I actually use a cold steel SRK for hard use in the garage and in the yard.
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  #69  
Old 05-18-2006, 09:44 PM
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blade length, steel, and leather

Ron and Surf,
Surf: By a score of 13-2 the blade length of 7" and the choice of stainless steel has already been determined. We are figuring out hilts and hardware metal..or were supposed to be: The "leather" topic has gotten us a little side-tracked.
Ron: I agree that your 60 year old leather-handled Randall needs very little. My 20 year old leather-handled Randall needs very little upkeep. The reason for this is the fact that we, me, your dad, etc. have been adding human oil from foundling them. There is absolutely nothing better!!...Period!!
My problem with leather maintenance is with the "newer" Randalls. Closet queens they are not. Too dry and the alum comes out of them (actually weeps and looks like bad epoxy). Too wet and they swell and re-configure. Those are the facts as I have seen, first-hand, with current production Randalls that are used very slightly or not at all. Best solution: Use the crap out of it! If you are going to put the thing up and never let it see the light of day...Car wax, applied monthly and removed right away, or go with another handle.
I Love Leather! Please...nobody mis-understand that, but take that bad boy for a ride now and then! Best, Capt. Chris Stanaback


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  #70  
Old 05-18-2006, 09:53 PM
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Cap,

Sorry for getting ahead of the game. I now understand what you meant about the leather.

Thanks and best,

Ron
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  #71  
Old 05-18-2006, 10:57 PM
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Ron,
Don't you agree? Shouldn't folks "fondle" their leather? (That just ain't right) I know that you don't have huge experience with "new, especially "squeaky-clean new", Randalls, but aren't most of your old leather-handled Randalls well-worn, or at least well-handled and "dark" compared to new leather washers? The "oldies, but goldies" get that "almost black" look to the leather. Hell: No wonder there is very little up-keep on them. They are full of the "right stuff"! If you ask Gary Randall which handle material he would recommend for an everyday "user" he will advise you that leather is one of his favorites. The key word "everyday user", in my opinion, anyway. Best, Capt. Chris Stanaback


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  #72  
Old 05-19-2006, 05:58 PM
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Not a #1-7 but close.

A #5-7 leather grip with finger grooves, brass guard and cap, black & brass spacers. I wish now I had ask for the top edge to be sharpened.

This one arrived today.

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File Type: jpg #5-7_leather_fg2.jpg (23.9 KB, 70 views)


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  #73  
Old 05-19-2006, 06:47 PM
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Hi Tom!

A definite wiiner you've got there!

I'm glad though that you didn't have the top sharpened. Your leather helmet would get a hole in it for sure.

Cheers!

David


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  #74  
Old 05-19-2006, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moosehead
Hi Tom!
I'm glad though that you didn't have the top sharpened. Your leather helmet would get a hole in it for sure. Cheers!
David
My helment already has a hole in it.
That's where my braided pony tail goes through.


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  #75  
Old 05-19-2006, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomthbomb
My helment already has a hole in it.
That's where my braided pony tail goes through.
Moose,

GOTCHA!


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