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  #1  
Old 08-31-2001, 10:37 PM
Gary Mulkey
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heat treat?


I just got some beautiful ladder pattern damascus of 1095 & 15n20 and have not heat treated any 1095 before. I believe that critical temp on it is 1450 but I'm not sure where to normalize and temper it. Can someone give me some specs for it. It's such a nice piece of steel, I hate to take any chances with it.

Gary Mulkey
<a href="mailto:gary@fallcreek.net"...lcreek.net</a>
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2001, 08:04 AM
J Loose
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Gary,

There were a couple of great threads on this very subject in Ed Caffrey's Forum just a couple of weeks ago. You'll get more info reading those that anyone could reply to here and now.
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2001, 08:30 AM
Bob Warner
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I agree, as part of the 1095 thread, I can tell you we went through the heat treat process in detail in Ed's forum.
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2001, 10:21 AM
Gary Mulkey
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Thanks for the tip on the threads. I learned quite a bit. I would like to draw on your experience a little more if you don't mind. Admiral shows 1095 to have a Rc 65 after quinching. Have you noticed much difference in hardness between a brine & an oil quinch? Do I want 57-58 Rc for the finished blade or would you stay harder with a selective temper?

Another question: I have an electric heat treat oven so I can soak the blades if needed. How long can I soak the blades without needing to wrap them in tool wrap?

Gary
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  #5  
Old 09-01-2001, 12:43 PM
KandSKNIVES
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GARY, YOU ONLY NEED THE FOIL WHEN HARDENING THE BLADE. WHEN TEMPERING, DRAWING THE BLADE, FOIL IS NOT NEEDED BECAUSE OF THE LOWER TEMPS.
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2001, 02:25 PM
primos
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Gary,
I've got a lot of opinions on this. First off, don't use the heat treat foil at all. You will not be able to get it out of the wrap fast enough to quench. You will not be satisfied. You have a very narrow window to get 1095 from critical to the quench. Quenching with the blade still in the wrap will not bring optimum results either. I'm not saying this from reading spec sheets. I'm speaking from experience. Learn from my mistakes. I experiment a lot. Some things work, some things don't.

Also, unless you have experimented quite a bit with water quench, I would suggest that you avoid it and go with oil quench. Water quench is pretty radical and takes time to learn. You subject the steel to severe shock and risk warping, cracking, and/or breaking.

Again, I can tell you from personal experience, when you do something like this on a blade, you will have quite a sinking feeling. :x



This one was straight carbon water quenched. Imagine how you would feel if this was your blade and in damascus. Bet you'd say a few mild expletives wouldn't you? :

------------------------------------

Here is some ladder pattern damascus in 1095 and 203E, quenched in oil. Much better results.




[ He comes back and says... ]

Oh yeah, I thought of something else. This is just my opinion, but I don't really care too much for differentially heat treated damascus. When you etch, you can see the transition line, and to me it breaks up the pattern.


[ He comes back again... ]

Dang! I just keep thinking of things to say. I told you I had a lot of opinions on this. I would suggest no soak time. Dealing with plain carbon steels is a lot different from the high alloy steels. Long soaks at critical or above with simple carbon steels is begging for some serious grain growth. You don't want that.


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  #7  
Old 09-01-2001, 08:08 PM
Gary Mulkey
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Thanks Terry,

I feel a lot more confident about heat treating 1095 now. You're right, I would have found something unkind to call myself if I had ruined one of the blades. I got the steel from Daryl Meier and probably wouldn't be able to replace it since he is not making any more.

I'll try to post some pictures when I get them finished.

Gary
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