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  #1  
Old 02-16-2010, 04:48 PM
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Home Bulit Etcher questions

I thought this was going to be easy I was following Chris Crawfords tutorial and I had also downloaded a schematic from another site. I thought they were the same. Im not sure that they are now. Is it suppose to put out 12 volts Negative DC or Positive ? I cant seem to follow Chris's wire number one ,two,.three I really would like a schematic.

thank

Dave

i just ran it thru the meter and it puts out 14 ac and -13 DC. Is that correct ?

Last edited by Txcwboy; 02-16-2010 at 05:23 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-18-2010, 08:43 PM
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If you follow Chris's instructions and parts list exactly, youll end up with 24 volts a/c and d/c. If you run the etcher like that it burns stencils. The wiring diagram that is floating around on the net is to reduce the 24 volt output to 12 volts. If you have roughly 12 volts a/c and d/c output from it now, you are all set.

The reason you have negative 13 volts dc is because the leads on your meter are backwards. Swap your meter leads side for side and you will have positive voltage.

Last edited by Teknition; 02-18-2010 at 08:46 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-18-2010, 11:13 PM
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The schematics I used is for a 12 volt etcher. I couldnt get enough info from the Chris tutorial to do it his way. I also do electronics as a small hobby and I couldnt get the jest of his wiring info. So I followed the schematics. I get 14 ac and -13 dc because its unfiltered. It pulses the dc. I dont have my leds backwards. I was just wondering if it was suppose to be 12 or 24 volts. The schematics alllow for either. I asked him details and he didnt know anything other that what was on the web site. My Father is an EE and was helping me with it. So yours is 24 volts AC/DC ?

THANKS !

Dave
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  #4  
Old 02-19-2010, 05:45 PM
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Yes, mine is 24 volts. Not a real big deal to me because I make my own stencils and usually make a dozen of so at a time. They burn up fast so usually they only get one or 2 uses and then are thrown out. If you want any longevity from the stencils, 12 volts is what you are looking for.

Whatever the o/c voltage of the transformer is, is what you should be getting out of the leads. My transformer has a tap for 12 volts and a tap for 24 volts depending on what wires you connect you can get either out of it. One of these days I when I'm thinking of it I will switch mine over to 12 volts. Having a built in pulser is cool, just remember that you still have to lift the probe off the stencil intermittently to let it offgas.
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  #5  
Old 02-19-2010, 07:35 PM
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I still need some type of felt and screen ?
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  #6  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:33 PM
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If all you have now is an etching machine, you will still need:

-a pair of leads; one wire with an alligator clip and the second one with your pad on the end.
- a pad to blot the stencil with; some guys just use a q-tip, others make a wooden handle with a stainless plate on the bottom and cover it with felt, or order one from one of the commercial etcher manufacturers.
- a stencil; buy one ready made or get the quipment and film to make your own (a whole new project and learning curve).
- etching solution; Ive read some guys using salt water with success, or order commercial etching solution. There are specific etchants depending on the type of steel you are using.
-netralizer; I dont know of any home brewed solutions, I use commercial neutralizer.

-a few scrap pieces of the steel you plan to use to practice on. Dont try to etch on a blade first thing, there is a bit of a learning curve to get a good etch. There is no etching technique set in stone, if you ask 10 different makers, youll get 12 different answers. This is the way I do it.

The first time (using scrap): Set your etcher for D/C (etches the depth). Tape your stencil to the steel on one edge. Soak the pad with etchant and then dab the pad on paper towel until it just leaves a damp mark when pressed into the towel. Ive found this is about the right amount of etchant on the pad.
Hook the wire with the alligator clip to the steel and dab the pad on the stencil. Dab for a second or 2, then lift off for 5 seconds to allow the stencil to degas. Repeat the dabbing process 3-5 times. Lift the edge of the stencil up and have a look at the etch. If the etch isn't deep enough, fold the stencil back down and go thru the dabbing process 5 times again. When you are happy with the depth of the etch switch the etcher to A/C voltage (darkens the etch) and go thru the dabbing process again until the etch is dark black. Remove the stencil and soak the etch with neutralizer. Let the neutralizer soak for a minute or 2 and then wipe it off. Let the steel sit for 5-10 minute to let the black deposit set up and then clean up the etch area with the last grit sand paper you used on the blade, rubbing very lightly with something hard and flat backing the paper.
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:44 PM
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etching

Bob Warner has a nice video that not only helps you build the etcher, but light box to make your own stencils, covers anodizing and gold plating, all in the "Electrolysis of knifemaking" by CCIV.

12Volts is plenty to do it all.
You can click on the orange banner below for details, go to video page, item # 1013.
God bless.
Geno

Last edited by Geno; 02-19-2010 at 08:46 PM.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2010, 08:54 AM
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I got it working and it works real nice. Doesnt take much time at all to get a good etch .

thanks for all the help

Dave
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2010, 08:48 AM
drman63 drman63 is offline
 
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question

where did you find the 12 volt schematic? I have used Chris's etcher for some time with no problem but i do tend to wear out my stencil. I wouldn't mind toning it down a bit ..thanks
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  #10  
Old 02-24-2010, 01:53 PM
drman63 drman63 is offline
 
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found it and thought I'd add it to this site. This guy is great and the wiring is easy. Thanks again

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/kni...er/index.shtml
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  #11  
Old 02-24-2010, 05:14 PM
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Glad to hear you got it done and working Dave. Did you make your own stencil or buy one?

Thats the most complete etcher tutorial I've seen on the net so far drman.
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2010, 03:01 PM
drman63 drman63 is offline
 
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Ok I finally figured it out, the 24v to 12 volt conversion. it took a little research looking at the diagrams but let me explain for those who are struggling. first of all the wiring for the transformer on mlogiudice.com vs chris crawford are different but it doesnt matter b/c on the transformer the two black back wires on the back are for 120v input. the two and 1 back wire on the other side are for output.****** One yellow wire + one black wire = 12.6 volt output
************One yellow wire + one Yellow wire = 25.2 volt output
do not join together all three output wires , as this will cause the transformer to short circuit
So what are the key difference in the hookup? well thats what I'm working on so no one else will have to do this search and find game ....
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  #13  
Old 03-01-2010, 03:04 PM
drman63 drman63 is offline
 
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http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...83#tabsetBasic
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102703

check out the PDF manual that goes with the transformer and bridge rectifier. This should help with the difference b/t these two set ups

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/kni...er/index.shtml
http://chriscrawfordknives.com/#/ele...nit/4535265119

Last edited by drman63; 03-01-2010 at 03:06 PM. Reason: add text
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2010, 04:21 PM
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I bought my stencils. That is the same schematic I used. I saw that guy bought his pad part premade. Not in my budget I only paid 31 for all the parts to mine. I had several already.
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2010, 07:46 AM
drman63 drman63 is offline
 
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fired up the 12 volt last nite and I was not impressed with the results vs the 24 volt . I have the steps different from the two laid out if anyone wants it let me know.
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