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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#16
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golfer I got my 1/2in one from Beaumont (link below) but usa knife maker also has them
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/sh....aspx?catid=18 |
#17
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Mr. Garrett I have never had a problem shredding belts against a platen. Now I am worried about my new 2x48 grinder as all it has is a platen I made from stainless 316L and polished.
I have used platens for years including a monster 12"x I don't know, but bigger than 72" grinder at work with a big platen and huge tool rest table, but I have never shredded a belt. I'm guessing you put a lot of pressure on the belt? I can see that on some of the thin backing material specialty belts, but on a regular belt don't you have to use excessive pressure or push a pointed edge into it? Now I've done grinding 45s onto angle iron on a 2x48 Kalamazoo. The cut burred edge did shred the blade as I had a 100 or so to do and was in a hurry, I had to slow down. Was using a 60 grit zirconium belt. |
#18
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Let me clarify...
I have a glass-lined platen that I use as needed. I feel the 'bump' every time and wish I could afford the rotary platen to avoid that. I freehand grind--never using a tool rest. I no longer do any mass stock removal on the platen as I did early on, because I have torn belts. I've never been hurt by one, but it startles me when it happens and I don't like it. It tends to happen most with 120G and 220G J-Flex belts (which are my favorite) during primary grinding. It never happened post heat treat as I have my grinder going real slow during that procedure. My go-to grinding surface is a polyurethane coated, 70 durometer contact wheel, with a 60G 3M belt as fast as the machine will go. I can even do some flat grinding in that mode if I'm careful (at least to get it started). But that's me. I'm one knifemaker and maybe not a particular talented, sensible, or well trained one. I have a tight budget and my tooling and belt choices reflect that. Please don't let me worry you about your set-up. You do what you feel safe doing and enjoy the hell out it. Opinions are free, and I'm no one's priest. That said: If a metal contact wheel is questionably hazardous while turning and moving with the belt (arguably reducing friction on the back side), how is a platen not equally or more hazardous with a moving belt pinched between two hard, stationary objects? Even worse..., have you seen the radiused platens? Just food for thought. I've always believed that these forums are here to provoke thought and assist you to discover your own solutions and methods--not to tell you what to think or how to do stuff. Again, opinions are free. BTW, I loved my 2x48 Multitool II set-up. I don't recall shredding any belts of that size either. Have a great day! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#19
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when I put the bevels in I use VSM ceramic...after that more and more I am using the 3m gator belts to refine and finish. I have never had one really pop. One time I dug the tip in to much and it created a lil slice in the belt but it didn't explode like some other belts would have.
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#20
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I hate it when a belt breaks at high speed, wakes you up and may slap you like an ex girlfriend did once. Only once, as I was outta there.LOL
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Tags |
bearing, bee, belt, belts, blade, clean, dip, drill, easy, finish, forge, grinding, handle, how to, kmg, knife, knives, metal, problem, profiling, sanding, show, small, steel, wheels |
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