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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#31
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Ray's pointed out all the possible reasons I could think of. Maybe USAK messed up (they don't usually, but then they didn't "make" the steel). Pretty sure they'd replace it with good stock if it proves not to be 1084.
All this pretty much clarifies the need for proper and extensive testing of the steels used whether store bought or recycled. Otherwise you do not know. Glad you are having fun with it and learning. Part of the process. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#32
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Carl, would it be a better to purchase directly from NJ Steel Baron when it is available?
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#33
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I really like dealing with Aldo (very directly). He's at the Blade Show every year here in Atlanta and I hit him up for 1084, if he's got it, first thing. He's usually only a few rows away from my table. However, they are shaking things up with the booths and tables this year so I'll have to hunt him down this time.
Seems to be a big push on the 1084 the past two years so it's best to call early and often. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#34
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The quenching temperature seems a bit low. Typically the quench temperature should be about 75 F above the Curie temperature [1440 F].
Proper terms would help us understand you Normalize is what you do before the rest of HT. So it's normalize [if necessary] ,bring above critical temperature and air cool.That's normally done two to three times. Then harden .After quench temper at your choice , maybe 400 F to 500F one to three times depending on the steel --more complex , more tempers --2 hours per temper. Properly done 1084 will give you a fine blade ! |
#35
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Based on my research, it looks like I can anneal the 1084 samples I have already made by heating to 75 F above A3 (about 1500F) and allowing them to cool inside the oven after it has been turned off. After they are annealed I can re-heat treat.
Looking at the temp chart for 1084 I think I will try to get it up to 1500F to quench. I read that you may or may not need to normalize. What would make you need to normalize instead of just quenching then doing the temper process?? |
#36
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I had to go back and read how you are making your blades, evidently by stock removal. I don't think that the 1084 that Tracy carries is any different than what Aldo carries. If it's the same that Also carries it has 0.876 carbon and 0.153 chromium and some manganese and traces of other elements it's not the 1084 that shows up on some other data sheets.
A long annealing in your forge as you describe carries the risk of causing the carbides to clump. You may get by with the 1500? soak. Try a blade that way and snap it after tempering to take a look at how the grain is. If it's a fine gray surface that doesn't show individual grains then you should be ok. If you want to relieve stress in the steel normalize. Even if you are doing stock removal grinding can put stresses into the blade. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#37
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Thanks for the help I will try this out when I get a few minutes
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Tags |
1084, bee, blade, brass, cold, edge, file, forge, full tang, handle, harden, heat, knife, knives, make, material, post, quenched, rebar, rod, scale, steel, tang, temper, vise |
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