Attempting Stock Removal

[Jay-Z]

Hey rockhound, Great job man, that thing is looking great

[dallas1]

from what i have seen of your work you are going to be a darn good knife maker.

[rockhound]

Thanks for the kind words you guys. BUT... I'm still greener than a rain forest. This is a very basic build and I still need to learn hidden tang, bolster making, guard, front/rear pommels, hollow grind, sheath making, folders, HT, and much much more. I don't know if I'll ever reach the point of forging. I have a lot to learn and lack investment capital and tools.
Anything I've learned and applied thus far can be credited in large part to the help I've gotten here. Just following advice and being careful.

[rockhound]

I started draw-filing the cutting bevel.
I've been trying this with the same files that I used for the primary bevels and I'm afraid they are pretty beat.
They're inexpensive files from the hardware store and I'd prefer not to re-purchase.
This steel is hard now and a different animal... any suggestions on which file would perform this task best?
I just looked a Jantz and most are affordable. I don't mind paying a little more for the right file, just not sure at all 'which' would do draw-filing best on this hardened (+ Cryo) ATS-34.
Thanks.

[rockhound]

I did a little more research.... Diamond File maybe or Magicut?

[graveyard]

hey rockhound good job dude lots of info for newbey & semi newbys . um were the hanel pic,s

[rockhound]

Originally Posted by graveyard

um were the handle pics

It's a basic full tang handle scale installation and I thought that a pictorial might side-track the subject of stock removal. The handle turned out nice and I'll definitely picture it once this is completed.

[Crex]

'Spect it's not likely you'll venture east from the wonderland of CO, but if you ever find yourself coming in the direction of Hotlanta let me know. I might just change your mind and your world with a little hands on fire and hammer work. Not harder, just different from stock removal. It's not "gorilla" work but finesse. You would be surprised.

[rockhound]

Carl, that is a mighty fine offer and I would definitely take you up on it if I were able to make that journey... thank you!
Unfortunately, I don't see that in my near future.
My biggest problem with learning forging at this point is more of a practicality issue, I currently live in a condo... no shop. As much as I'd like to learn forging, it's not practical for me at this point in time. I'm already pushing the envelope by doing lapidary work here which can be loud and messy at times.
(any file recommendations?)

[rockhound]

Well... from reading other stuff on the interwebs I'm going to try wrapping #50 emery around the file (maybe other grits too) and try to draw-file the cutting bevel again.
Might work.

[rockhound]

(sorry if this is getting boring)
The #50 emery on the file is removing material much faster than the file... so I'm making progress again. I'm sure that it's not the best way to manually create a cutting edge bevel but it is definitely working.
Downside so far:
1. A few random scratches (minor) from the #50 that I'll have to go back and fix later with various grits of sandpaper
2. I will later have to create a choil at the ricasso to better define my edge termination. Not a "downside" necessarily, it will look nice and I'm confident that I can carefully create the choil with my flex-rotary and a small Diamond Barrel bit.

[rockhound]

Here's another option I just thought of....
I own the Fiskar axe sharpener pictured below. It has two rolling stones inside that create and sharpen a beveled cutting edge on my axes very well.
Maybe this would be a fast & easy way to establish my cutting bevel?
I'm assuming that my axes are also hardened steel and it works well for them.
Any thoughts?

[tim_h]

This is a very informative thread for a newb such as myself. I wish I had found this before I started my first knife and will be following closely when I start my second. Great work Rockhound.-- Tim

[Ray Rogers]

Axes are (sort of) hardened steel, not near as hard as a knife blade. I have put edges on blades using products intended for sharpening - it works, it's slow, and it's pretty much the end of that sharpener ....

[Crex]

Those kind of sharpeners are more intended for truing up an established edge, not creating one. Axes are usually tempered a good bit softer than knife blades due to impact/chipping issues. So yeah, they will normally sharpen somewhat easier. The probable reason that your files are not making much headway on the final bevel is that the blade is hardened to just that level that the files cannot cut effectively and you're just dulling your files unneedfully. Diamond files should do ok, but the paper is working so go with it. I don't like to use paper over a file because at some point the file will break through and put a cut right where you don't want it.
Just a solid piece of flat steel bar (with sligtly broken or softened edges) or, my preference, micarta will work just fine. You can also round one edge of the micarta to match your plunge line at the choil transition for cleaning up there. Use some of that 3M tacky spray on the hard backing of choice and save yourself some finger cramps.

Understand about the lapidary issue......I do a bit of that myself from time to time. However, you can make up a small forging setup with a two-brick or coffee can forge that fire off small bottle Lp torches (bernzomatic type) and a small anvil like object (section of pumpshaft, rxr track, etc.). If you dampen the vibration on the anvil, the noise level will be less than your rock saw or grinder. You'd still be able to forge blades as large and a little larger than the one you are working on now. Lot simpler than you might imagine with a very small foot print.

The "visit" invitation stands. You never know, old prospectors have always been known to just load their mule and go.......