Forge is a going. Take a look

[nthe10ring]

Canola oil, get it at the grocery store, just buy the cheapest store brand. It works great for most simple steels. I use 1084 and it works great. Pretty high flash point and doesnt smell bad. Fairly inexpensive.

Jerry

[NJStricker]

Originally Posted by squigly1965

LOL you got to it before I did

Would the Diamond Sharpener do the job?

A sharpener is just that--a sharpener. It's meant to take off very small amounts of steel to re-establish an edge that's already there. If your blade, before establishing the edge, is about the thickness of a dime (usually recommended as a thickness before heat treat), then you'll probably go through several diamond sharpeners to get what you need.

Do you have a single cut file?

[squigly1965]

no but i suppose i can get one.

[NJStricker]

If you're going to get one, get a good one. A Nicholson will run you around $10 or 12. If you ever do hidden tangs, it will be good for squaring up the shoulders, etc., or anywhere you need some finesse work that your belt sander might bugger up.

[squigly1965]

question though. after I harden the metal will the file still work?

[Arccher Moon]

It should. It will take a little longer, but it will work. Harden 440c tears up a file real quick.

[squigly1965]

I found a Bunsen Burner that i had rescued from the garbage at my old job. Used a hose to connect it to an old torc. The tip didn't work but the on/off valve did. and let me tell you it heated the forge up beautifully. A lot more gas efficient. I pounded out a piece in record time.
Just thought I would bring that up. They seem to be a pretty low cost burner.The one I have is a Tirrill. Same basic design as what I've seen plans for but in an already assembled form. Great for my 2bricker. Hoping it works well enough for when I upgrade my forge to a mini forge, to be able use it there too.

Going out to the local thrift stores to look for a toaster oven for the tempering process. an I could have had one for free when they closed down my old job . Little did I know. Anyways, I want to get the oven before I decide to Harden the blades so I can temper right after I harden them.

I have a Johnson Mill Bastard half round and a Nicholson Mill Smooth would either of these work.

[NJStricker]

If that's what you have (files), that will work.

Get an oven thermometer when you are out getting your toaster oven. The kind that sits on the wire racks while you are baking cookies. Once you get your oven, try it out and use the thermometer to see if it will hold a temperature. Some will, some won't. The ones that won't hold temp will get hot, cool down, then heat up again. If you get one that holds the temps fine, then use the thermometer to adjust the temperature to whatever you want your tempering temp to be, say 375. Don't trust the dial. Mine reads 450 when the temp is actually 400.

[squigly1965]

I ended up picking up a single cut 12" bastard.

I'll see if it can find a thermometer.
Well I got a Haier brand it had a 1 hour timer on it was the reason I chose it over the other one the thrift store had

[squigly1965]

does motor oil as a quenchant need to be used? The local parts store has some 5w30 at 5qts for $10. It's the cheapest oil I've found.

Forgot the thermometer while I was out dang it. I have a digital one that I can use to ready the oil to quenching temp. But it will only go to 300˚F would that be a good cut off. To let the oil cool back down some? or is it too low?

[NJStricker]

Motor oil might work, but also might flare up more. Your steel may harden, but may not harden as much as it would if you were using a faster oil.

You'll want the oil between 125 and 175 or so before quench. If quenching multiple blades, you really don't want the oil hotter than 200.

[squigly1965]

here are the Now three knives I am working one

they are all O-1 steel

This first one
OAL is 7.125"
Blade length is 3.75"
Width is about 3/32" Tapers to about 1/32" at the tip
Handle material is Maple Burl
Bolster material is Orange Osage

This knife I am making for myself. Did some extra filework (vines) along handle. I'll get a pic of the filework when the knife is finished. It was an experiment . Didn't turn out great but not too bad. The handle and bolsters need to be be brought down some still. A bit on the thick side.




Next.
OAL is just a hair past 8.5"
Blade length Est. 4.5"
Width is .25" and tapers to a hair over 1/32"
Handle Material is Curly Walnut

A friend ask me to make them a dagger. And well this is what I came up with. Since I believe Double edge knives are Illegal here in California. I'm thinking of a faux edge on one side. Probably only half length. The picture doesn't show the beauty of the wood at all. I didn't dress it up since I still have some material removal to do yet. I sanded one piece of this wood and it had a real satin like effect. I hope it turns up in the finished product.




Next
OAL is 9.25"
Blade Length is 4.5"
Width is 5/32" at the Ricasso and tapers in both directions
it's 1/16" at the lanyard hole and 1/16" at the gut hook
Handle material is Orange Osage

Another friend asked me to make him a knife with a gut hook. We plan on going hunting and he expects to need it. He's quite the optimist. Anyway not sure if this is a skinner exactly. By standard definition. But what I designed it be. Though I dont know about the Gut-Hook. Not sure if it's big enough. I couldn't find any minimum specs on one so this is what I got.



These will be my first Knives numbers 1,2 and, 3. relative to the pictures as posted. All are forged and hammered by me. I do use a 3x18 belt sander but mostly I use files. Well I welcome any comments or critique.

Thanks for Looking



Chris

[squigly1965]

Originally Posted by Armory414

Motor oil might work, but also might flare up more. Your steel may harden, but may not harden as much as it would if you were using a faster oil.

You'll want the oil between 125 and 175 or so before quench. If quenching multiple blades, you really don't want the oil hotter than 200.

Alrighty I will keep that in mind about the temp.


I just can't beat the price right now. I also found some corn oil for $5 a half gallon at the local grocery outlet. But I also didn't want to use a spoilable oil.

[samuraibill]

lookin' good bud!

[Ray Rogers]

Motor oil doesn't have to be used but it's OK if it is used. Like I said earlier, motor oil, hydraulic fluid, etc won't be optimal but it's fine for where you are in your learning curve.

Heat the oil up to 125 - 150 F but don't try to pre-heat it any hotter than that, especially don't heat it to 300 F and then try to cool it. Most oils flare at about 400 F and you really don't need several gallons of flaming oil to deal with ....