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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives.

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Old 12-07-2004, 11:49 AM
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off center blade......way off center

Hello all, I've got a man size perdicament, and it's a big one. I just got my blade back from heat treat, and was gonna finish the mechanical aspect of the build, and noticed that this blade sprung about .003. So I shimmed 'er up and surface ground the warp out of it. Well, now shes pulling hard to the one side when closed. I didn't realize when I ground out the warp, the pivot hole will still have the warp angle in it thus throwing my blade to the side.(Thats the only thing I can think of that would cause the blade to pull so bad). I have it reamed to .1875 right now and the only way I can think to correct this problem would be to redrill and ream to .250 and insert a .1875 pivot bushing, or go with a staight .250 pivot. The thing is, will my drill follow the bad angle when I open up the hole or do you think it will travel straight thus hopefully correcting the problem?? I'm using carbide tooling since the blade is hard. This knife was going really good and was well on it's way to being a beautiful piece, I don't really want this to turn into a "Look only do not touch non folding folder"
Thanks, Jeremy


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Old 12-07-2004, 12:36 PM
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I heat treat my own blades and then surface grind them, just as you did. When i make the blade I drill a 3/8ths pivot hole. Every effort is made to make sure the hole is square to the blade at that time. After HT, a oilite bronze bearing is pressed into the hole and then the blade is surface ground. At this point the 1/4" or smaller pivot hole in the bronze might be perpendicular and it might not. Either way, it is of no concern to me. All that is necessary now is to ream the soft bronze to the finished size. The reaming process will bring the centerline of the hole perpendicular with the blade........


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Old 12-07-2004, 12:53 PM
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Ray,
After you press the bronze bushing in the hole, how do you know where to redrill?? I have my blade all fitted and timed out against the stop pins and the lock is cut and fitted. If I plug my existing pivot hole, fill it with bronze and redrill, how will I pick up my location so everything will be the same as before?? maybe put the bushing in a lathe and drill a pilot hole before inserting it into the blade?


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Old 12-07-2004, 02:22 PM
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Yes, that's how I do it - an undersized hole using a lathe. The process I use for settting up my lock means that none of the lock will be affected by the HT or any other last minute unavoidable changes to the blade, even if I have to scrap the blade and make another one, or surface grind it thinner than I had planned.. This works for me because I make the blade first, including the locking notch, before I cut the lock loose from the liner or even think about setting the stop bar.

All of this may be of marginal use to you in solving your current problem since you have already cut your lock. You could try just opening the pivot to 1/4" and see if you get lucky. Or, you could press in some bronze and drill a hole and, if it doesn't fit correctly, punch it out and do it over until you get lucky or until you get close enough that you can shave some metal off the back of the blade where it meets the blade stop until the lock falls into place.

There is a thread about my tutorial on liner lock folders down the page from this thread. It has a section on fitting locks that might (or might not) be of some help....


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Old 12-07-2004, 03:55 PM
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Was the blade in the center during assembly before heat treat? Are your liners flat? Sometimes bending the lock can warp the liner. Is there too much lock pressure on the blade? I bend mine so it just touches the liner on the other side? Are you testing this with the knife fully assembled including the pivot screws? Are your washers flat?

Try assembling the knife withthe blade int he closed position.


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Old 12-08-2004, 11:46 AM
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Well, I think I got 'er taken care of. I drilled out the existing hole of .187 to .250. (cooked a brand new carbide drill in the process, that sucks). Just for ####s and grins, I slid a 1/4 inch dowell through the new hole and held a solid square to it. I was surprised to see that the carbide drill did take the angle that the exisiting 3/16 hole had and the dowell was heading skyward at a solid 3-4 degrees. I plugged it with a piece of bronze pith a pilot hole drilled in it, and reamed the new 3/16 hole. I put the knife together and the condition was much better. The new hole was a bit off location though as I had to retime the blade to the pin in the closed position, and refit the lock. Good thing for me that the hole was off in that direction and not the other, witch woulda caused the blade to close to far into the handle, and the lock unable to make contact with the blade. Thata been bad. Well anyway, I can sleep now, and I hope to finish this project this weekend so on Sunday I can sit on the couch and open and close the blade endlessly all the while wishing there was a Winston Cup race to watch.

Thanks to all for their imput, Doc


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