I was sitting her avoiding real work and thought I'd post some how-to info for how I parkerize blades and such. This is not "THE" way, just "my" way. Always follow the directions on your parkerizing kit with regards to dilution of the concentrate and priming the diluted solution with steel wool and such.
Well, I finally got the parkerizing up and going. I figured since I didn't have it set up at the hammer-in, I'd do a quick how to here.
This is the solution sold at Brownells supplies being used here. I'll be getting a much more concentrated supply next week...since my wife though this was dirty water on the stove and dumped it down the sink shortly after these pics were taken!
EDITED: I got some of the concentrated stuff from CALVAN that sells for ~$12( I think it's up to $20 now) and can make round 5 gallons. This made a great jet black coating, but it just didn't adhere well. I tried several different methods from pre heating parts in distilled water and post-boiling in distilled water, to a variety of oils as well. The finish always seemed very powdery and just rubbed off.
I've used another pre-mix similar to Brownells and have very good results with it, but I threw the original container away and don't remember the brand. It and the Brownell's leave a nice even durable finish. I did one of my Congo-trip knives with an extra heavy finish that left a very coarse textured jet black coating. This has proven to be very durable.
The first pic here is the parts just prior to the parkerizing. I blasted them with 80 grit garnet. I used to use glass beads, but the garnet seems to get a more even finish and produce better finish after parkerizing. It blends in minor rubs and scratches before parkerizing also. The blades were finished to 400 grit before blasting. The FAL muzzle brakes were just blasted.
Next pic is the pot being used. A key element in home chemical use is waiting until your wife steps out for a bit so you can use her good stainless pots. Use only stainless for parkerizing tanks. Find a container your blades will freely move about in.
Next, I pour in the solution, then fire it up over a medium heat. I heat it up to about 160-180*F. Several people have been suprised to see me dunk an entire knife in the solution. G10, micarta and epoxy are stable at parkerizing temps, so as long as you haven't used any non-waterproof materials (paper spacers, leather, wood, ivories, bone, etc), this doesn't hurt the knife and eliminates any scratches and such you might get from handle-finishing a pre-parkerized blade.
After you use the solution a few times, you'll get a "gunk" build up. This will break up and dissolve into the solution and is no big deal.